Question about water based gloss paint??

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Morning guys, i've been using the above for internal woodwork.

I rubbed door frame down to bare wood & used knotting solution, 2 coats of primer & 2 coats of Dulux satinwood water based gloss. Some of the knots you can just about see still ☹️

Is it just a matter of putting more coats on , or change to oil based gloss(can that be done) or have/am i doing/done something wrong?
 
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I have never had any luck with water based gloss paint. As you have found out the coverage is rubbish and it also shows brush marks. Change to oil based if you can find it.
 
I have never had any luck with water based gloss paint. As you have found out the coverage is rubbish and it also shows brush marks. Change to oil based if you can find it.
Is it hard to get hold of nowadays?
 
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An update to my original post. I think i have made a balls up with this. I'm not sure you can see properly in my photo, but a brown stain(no knots there) is coming through I noticed paint was peeling in that area over winter so just scraped it off & sanded everywhere before i repainted, assuming that would sort the problem out .

Obviously that's not the case. What are my options? Sand everything off & start again or would Zinser cover stain do the job?
 

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I suspect that the knots in your first post are still visible because they are so dark, Waterbased undercoats are often, but not always, less effective at obscuring dark colours than oil based undercoats.

It is difficult to say why the paint is peeling. If you are reluctant to purchase any further products, sand that area back and brush on the shellac based knotting solution that you currently have. You will however need to clean the brush using household ammonia.

I appreciate that you are asking about CoverStain, but Zinsser BIN, which I use a lot is basically knotting solution with white pigment.
 
I suspect that the knots in your first post are still visible because they are so dark, Waterbased undercoats are often, but not always, less effective at obscuring dark colours than oil based undercoats.

It is difficult to say why the paint is peeling. If you are reluctant to purchase any further products, sand that area back and brush on the shellac based knotting solution that you currently have. You will however need to clean the brush using household ammonia.

I appreciate that you are asking about CoverStain, but Zinsser BIN, which I use a lot is basically knotting solution with white pigment.
Cheers opps for your reply.

If I buy some BIN & rub down the area where paint was originally peeling would i be able to paint over the whole door frame as it is now & then give it a couple of more coats. Would that potentially sort the problem out?
 
I used some Johnstones acrylic satin a while back to recoat barge boards on previous house. Not as shiny as gloss of course but seemed to stay put and has high opacity. It was still on there after five years when I last looked, I think Wickes sell it.
 
Cheers opps for your reply.

If I buy some BIN & rub down the area where paint was originally peeling would i be able to paint over the whole door frame as it is now & then give it a couple of more coats. Would that potentially sort the problem out?

If you have shellac based knotting solution, why do you need to buy the shellac based BIN? That said, two coats of BIN may obscure the colour difference faster than four or five coats of waterbased paints.

Don't forget the advice to use household ammonia to clean the brush. When I first started using BIN, I would purchase throw away brushes. The finish however was awful, once I discovered that ammonia breaks down

Other than BIN, Blockaide by Smith and Rodgers (Glasgow) is slightly cheaper and equal in quality.

You can touch in the area as required BUT work fast, it goes off very quickly. It will be touch dry in 10-15 minutes on a hot day. Wait at least 20-25 mins before applying a second coat of the shellac based paint of your choice.
 

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