Rad valve leak advise needed

[gunnag]

A few months ago I had a new combi boiler installed which uses a sealed system to heat the radiators. The old system used a header tank in the loft but this is now redundant.

I have recently noticed a problem with one radiator whereby the valve connection to the rad tail is leaking slightly. No problem I thought, simply tighten the nut with waterpump pliers. However, the nut appears seized and any force causes the valve to try and turn, potentially cracking the copper supply pipe. On inspection, the nut looks like its been sealed with somethink like boss white. IM guessing that the whole lot is seized up solid.

I have isolated the radiator by turning off the supply and lockshield valves. The slow trickle from the leak has now virtually stopped so I guess the rad is now nearly empty.

IM hoping someone can give me some ideas on how to fix this leak. Some options IM considering:-
- Hold rad valve steady with big set of waterpump pliers whilst undoing seized nut with even bigger wrench. Will heating the seized nut help?
- As there is no drain valve in the whole CH system, I cant drain the system and remove the valve from the supply pipe. Is it worth using a freezing kit to help with this ?

Even if I do manage to get the seized nut undone how would reseal it to ensure no leaks?

All info welcome

 

[Agile]

Most would fit a new valve!

If you really want to save pennies then post a picture and others will tell you what you can do with it !

Tony

 

[smeghead12]

A few months ago I had a new combi boiler installed which uses a sealed system to heat the radiators. The old system used a header tank in the loft but this is now redundant.

I have recently noticed a problem with one radiator whereby the valve connection to the rad tail is leaking slightly. No problem I thought, simply tighten the nut with waterpump pliers. However, the nut appears seized and any force causes the valve to try and turn, potentially cracking the copper supply pipe. On inspection, the nut looks like its been sealed with somethink like boss white. IM guessing that the whole lot is seized up solid.

I have isolated the radiator by turning off the supply and lockshield valves. The slow trickle from the leak has now virtually stopped so I guess the rad is now nearly empty.

IM hoping someone can give me some ideas on how to fix this leak. Some options IM considering:-
- Hold rad valve steady with big set of waterpump pliers whilst undoing seized nut with even bigger wrench. Will heating the seized nut help?
- As there is no drain valve in the whole CH system, I cant drain the system and remove the valve from the supply pipe. Is it worth using a freezing kit to help with this ?

Even if I do manage to get the seized nut undone how would reseal it to ensure no leaks?
if you are struggling with a pair of grips , use a pair of stilsons to undo , just a medium size pair of stilsons will undo tke nut ok , hold the valve with grips while doing this , ptfe thread and tighten back up , refill rad , tony

All info welcome

 

[smeghead12]

A few months ago I had a new combi boiler installed which uses a sealed system to heat the radiators. The old system used a header tank in the loft but this is now redundant.

I have recently noticed a problem with one radiator whereby the valve connection to the rad tail is leaking slightly. No problem I thought, simply tighten the nut with waterpump pliers. However, the nut appears seized and any force causes the valve to try and turn, potentially cracking the copper supply pipe. On inspection, the nut looks like its been sealed with somethink like boss white. IM guessing that the whole lot is seized up solid.

I have isolated the radiator by turning off the supply and lockshield valves. The slow trickle from the leak has now virtually stopped so I guess the rad is now nearly empty.

IM hoping someone can give me some ideas on how to fix this leak. Some options IM considering:-
- Hold rad valve steady with big set of waterpump pliers whilst undoing seized nut with even bigger wrench. Will heating the seized nut help?
- As there is no drain valve in the whole CH system, I cant drain the system and remove the valve from the supply pipe. Is it worth using a freezing kit to help with this ?

Even if I do manage to get the seized nut undone how would reseal it to ensure no leaks?
if you are struggling with a pair of grips , use a pair of stilsons to undo , just a medium size pair of stilsons will undo tke nut ok , hold the valve with grips while doing this , ptfe thread and tighten back up , refill rad , tony

All info welcome

 

[Jpk111]

Hi PTFE tape is usually used in these situations. You should be able to drain the system so u can do the work. Why not just get a plumber in should cost appx 50-60 quid, this way you can learn what do in the future by watching the plumber and asking questions.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Hi PTFE tape is usually used in these situations. You should be able to drain the system so u can do the work. Why not just get a plumber in should cost appx 50-60 quid, this way you can learn what do in the future by watching the plumber and asking questions.

To drain a heating system, remove and refit the radiator valve, supply and apply inhibitor, fill and bleed making sure all radiators are hot.

£50-£60????????????????????



Good luck on finding someone to do all of that for that money.

Andy

 

[gunnag]

Cheers guys, at this stahe I thought I would try fixing the leak myself since IM a fairly competent diy'er. If it doesnt work then I will call a plumber.

Ideally I would change the complete valve but as mentioned, there is no drain and the whole system has recently been fillled with inhibitor, so I would like to avoid draining if possible.

The only way I can see of removing the valve without flooding the room would be to freeze the pipe and tnen swap out the old valve for a new one wihich has a drain.

Anyone tried a freezing kit? I have heard mixed reports on them.

Another option may be to add a drain valve using one of those clamp on self cutting taps as used on washing machines.

Anyway, tonight IM going to try undoing the seized nut using a big wrench and holding the valve with another wrench.

 

[rjm2k]

Anyway, tonight IM going to try undoing the seized nut using a big wrench and holding the valve with another wrench.

That's the approach I use, might be easier using a spanner on the nut though rather than a wrench, then counter the twist using the wrench on the valve body. You will probably find it needs very little tightening to stop the leak.

 

[Jpk111]

i would go for the freezing option, a competent plumber could do this job very quickly, i did this myself to change a valve. Sometimes its cheaper to pay for the work than the stress of doing it yourself. If you are going to do it check out this link.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pipe-freezing-kit-220ml/13369

No draining required - less than 60 quid - if you do get a competent plumber to do it then i suggest this would cost you 60 quid plus the freeze kit.

hope this helps....