Radiator leak

[sw1000xg]

Hello can you help me?

I have a leak in my bedroom (upstairs) I want to stop the water getting into that radiator and still use the central heating system for the rest of the house (will freeze if I don't lol) I have a combi boiler system (no tank)the worchester 24i model, I have turned the water off by the stop cock (under the sink) but the water is still pumping through the radiators why how do I stop the water. The radiator "ONLY" has one valve thingy to turn but this does not turn the water off to it...it just controls the heat (looks like a small white tube with 4 slim grips around it, don't know if this helps) which is on the left hand side of the radiator but nothing on the right. On the rightside of the radiator is where the water is coming through but there is nothing to turn there just the bend from the floor to the radiator...how do I stop the water coming through with out unbolting everything and getting water everywhere? I have drained the radiator after turning the stop cock off (was told to do this).

 

[mogget]

Are you saying there's no valve at all on the right-hand side of the radiator? Not even one where you need to turn it with pliers after pulling off the plastic cap?

 

[nam]

Are you saying there's no valve at all on the right-hand side of the radiator? Not even one where you need to turn it with pliers after pulling off the plastic cap?

He didnt actually said where the leak is, modern rads dont rust through like in the old days so my guess is that the leak is from the olive (kids kicking the pipe?) if thats where its from he have no way of isolating that leak

 

[sw1000xg]

Sorry forgot to say that the leak is half a foot from the top and about a foot from the right side of the radiator (at the back cannot get to it without taking it off the wall). There is nothing on the right side no valve nothing its like it has been capped like said the pipe comes through the floor has this flat corner piece then it turns left (bolt and copper piping) in the radiator.

 

[neds]

A picture at this point would help considerably...

 

[sw1000xg]

Can't put a picture on my USB ports are dodgy at the moment, try to imagine a 1400mm long single radiator the bottom left (input if you can say that) has the heat valve (little small round white valve) turn anti clockwise for heat and clockwise for cold this is connected to the copper pipping into the floor. The other side has no valve just the copper pipping coming from the floor into the radiator, all I want to know is how to turn the water of so I can raplace the radiator. Turned the stop cock off water to taps and bath should now stop but will it stop the water to the heating system, or do I have to turn the mains water off outside. Just so I can replace the radiator myself otherwise I would have to call someone out but I would like to know how to do it myself please can you help...

 

[mogget]

Not sure what you mean by 'flat corner piece' but if there's no valve you'll have to drain the system and add one before you can get your heating back on - water can enter a radiator from either end.

Radiator leaks like this are usually caused by internal corrosion, the chances are that the rest of the system is decrepit if a rad's rusted through.

Once you've added a valve (or capped the pipe) refill with water not forgetting to add inhibitor.

Leave the real cleaning and flushing for the summer.

 

[sw1000xg]

Thanks for the advice, but how do I drain the system down on a combi system? do I have to pull up floor boards and stuff? can you imagine a bowler hat but flat on top thats what the corner piece looks like, it's joined to the floor copper pipe and to the radiator. Its like all fittings (a sidways T shape but has a bowler hat type corner piece lol...

 

[neds]

You should have a drain off point at the boiler or use the nearest rad to the boiler which may have a drain off point too.

 

[mogget]

Here's some info that will help:

//www.diynot.com/wiki/plumbing:faq

Most of the time with a combi, you'll be looking at a sealed system, with a filling loop, pressure relief valve etc, and without a feed and expansion cistern in the attic.

Buckets, old roasting trays, and bits of hose are your friend when draining down

Hope it all goes well for you!

Still can't work out the bowler hat thing though

 

[kirkgas]

could the bowler hat be similar to the new danfoss lockshilelds that come with the trv, they have a flat nut that you have to remove to close the valve with an allan key, we need a pic

 

[swbjackson]

Could be a newer boiler on an old system. If it's what I think it is the bowler hat thing will unscrew and there will be a screw underneath it. Turning this screw clockwise as far as it goes should shut it off.

 

[sw1000xg]

I'll get a pic on as soon as I can and hope you guys can help, cheers...

 

[sw1000xg]

Thanks to the people who tried to help it's been sorted now.

Best Regards

Kirk