Relocating Cooker Outlet

[mb21]

To introduce myself I started my career in Electronics repair 20 odd years ago repairing computer equipment/monitors etc and have assisted electrical installations into computer rooms so no stranger to electrics.

Doing some minor changes to our kitchen which includes moving a few units around to allow installation of a range style oven as opposed to a cupboard integrated oven.

The new rang oven will be next to where the existing oven is but the outlet will need relocating.

Currently there is an isolator on the wall and the cable to the oven comes out of the plasterboard about 12 inches to the left of the isolator behind current oven.

For the new range I need it to come out 2 foot below the current isolator which would be an easy job as its plasterboard (isolate at consumer unit & isolator and move the cable behind plasterboard, which I'm pretty sure is allowed under Part P as its a simple relocation of a cable outlet.

The only issue with this is that it would leave the isolator behind the new range hob.

I've read that Building Regulations states that there should be no outlets or accessories (cooker hoods excluded!) above any type of hob, nor within 300mm of the edge of the hob.

So I believe really the isolator should be moved which again as plasterboard would be pretty easy but not sure if its allowed under Part P - a new cooker circuit needs notification but simply moving a cooker isolator about 2 foot to the left then moving the outlet cable?

I've also however read that as its an existing installation it may acceptable as a 'minor defect' to have the cooker isolator above the hob.

Advice greatly appreciated?

 

[davelx]

Moving the isolator is not notifiable., since it does not involve:

(a) the installation of a new circuit;
(b) the replacement of a consumer unit; or
(c) any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location.


It still needs to be done correctly, of course, to comply with Part P.

 

[sparkwright]

The isolator musn't be above the range.

When you say plasterboard, do you mean a solid block wall with plasterboard dabbed on; or a hollow stud wall?

When moving the isolator and/or outlet, you must be certain the cables are in the correct 'safe cable zones', so they are less likely to get drilled through etc.

 

[mb21]

Thanks, just noticed the isolator actually has a crack in the body so probably should be replaced anyhow.

House is Brick/Block with plasterboard onto the block, with the tiles it should be possible to fit a steel knockout box onto the blockwork and run cables into the gap between plasterboard and blockwork.

Attached is my ideas/plans....was thinking the easiest option would be to junction at the location of the current isolator, then fit relocated isolated at the point where the current outlet is, then run cable from isolated down between plasterboard and blockwork to a new Cooker Connection Unit (as opposed to a wire just dangling out of a hole in the wall).

View media item 87322

 

[EFLImpudence]

The cable from switch to outlet would have to run back to the blanking plate then down so that it is in line with the accessories - easier anyway.

Get a horizontal cooker switch and socket (or square without socket); it will look better than the vertical one.

 

[sparkwright]

This would only be accessible if the junction box is to remain accessible - ie you fit a blanking over the join.

The reason you can't conceal the joint with filler or tiles is because the cable would no longer be in a safe zone.

 

[sparkwright]

What is the other side of this wall? Outside I suppose...

What is above this room?

 

[mb21]

Other side of wall is outside, above is ensuite bathroom.

Was indeed planning on putting a blanking plate over the junction, would probably change the steel back box from double to single so a single stainless blanking plate would not look too bad behind the stainless range and think that would be acceptable as it would not be a 'socket' or 'accessory' above the range hob!

Double isolator shown in diagram for ease, as I said current one has a crack in the white plastic body anyhow and never use the socket off it so would probably go for single isolator like this:

 

[sparkwright]

Take care NOT to get a 20 amp switch, you'll need one rated around 45-50 amps I should think.

Also be sure to fit deep enough back boxes. 35 mm deep minimum, 48 mm if you can.