Replacing old spots for new

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Hi, apologies if this has been asked before.

In my living room, we have 3 x R50 mains powered SES spotlights. They are controlled by a 2 gang dimmer switch (1 switch controlling 2 of the spots, with the second switch controlling the 3rd). One of the fittings has failed and needs replacing. I want to retain the current set up with the 2 dimmer switches and effectively change like for like. All the work will have to be done from below.

Being older fittings, the holes are quite large, but I see you can get modern oversized spotlights so assume no issues there? I do have some questions though...

1, I notice you can get either GU10 LED or MR16 Halogen fittings. Is one better than the other?
2, I was assuming that GU10s would be better as they are mains driven and avoid the need for transformers? I believe you can get LED dimmable bulbs?
3, I've seen in some forums talk about firehoods - are these required? The current lights don't, and they were fitted by a qualified electrician. Can you get firehoods that can be fitted from below?

Anything else I need to be aware of?

Many thanks,

Clive
 
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The mains powered GU10 are the better option.
Firehoods are almost never required. Their sole purpose is to restrict the spread of fire and allow persons in the room above more time to escape.
 
Being older fittings, the holes are quite large, but I see you can get modern oversized spotlights so assume no issues there? I do have some questions though..
You can also get conversion kits, as per link https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc...=finalurl_v2&gclid=CLyg4eK4q9ECFQ08GwodbMwCtw
1, I notice you can get either GU10 LED or MR16 Halogen fittings. Is one better than the other?
Without getting over technical regarding base sizes and multifaced refelection.
We will go with your assumptions.
2, I was assuming that GU10s would be better as they are mains driven and avoid the need for transformer? I believe you can get LED dimmable bulbs?
To avoid transformers or drivers for LEDs:whistle: Yes (in my opinion) and Yes LED dimables are available, but check that your dimmers can deal with the low load.
3, I've seen in some forums talk about firehoods - are these required? The current lights don't, and they were fitted by a qualified electrician. Can you get firehoods that can be fitted from below?
You can fit hoods from below but they are bit of a headache to fit, but generally not required, yet that would depend on the situation. I tend to fit fire-rated fittings if the above location is on a floor that is lived in. They are not that expensive.
Anything else I need to be aware of?
The Wife:evil: (oh sorry I thought you said beware of!)
 
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MR 16 refers only to the size of the lamp and they are available in 12v, 24v, 120v, or 240v so no need for transformers either if you select the 240 v type.

But LEDs are preferable to halogens if you care about the planet or your electricity bill.
 
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Hi.

Many thanks for your replies - getting a clearer picture in my head now.

One question (from PrenticeBoyofDerry's post), how do I check whether the dimmer switches can support the 'low load' - is there some magic words I'm looking for on the packet?

Thanks,

Clive
 
There should be a load rating on the back of dimmer switch plate, this should give you the minimum and maximum load rating per gang.
So if you are using low load LED lamps commonly between 1w and 10w, then you need a dimmer gang that can deal with the minimum load of the sets of each gang.

For example: You have 2 lamps on one gang and 1 lamp on the other. If you are using 5W LEDs the dimmer gang must be able to handle(be less than)the 5W load. This would also apply to the gang with 2 lamps, even though the accumulative load would be 10W, if one blew or became faulty, you are then down to the 5W load.
There are dimmers out, that are designed to take low led loads.
But I would suspect if the dimmer is an existing one on Incandescent lighting, that they would be rated at about 40w min - 250w max
 

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