Replacing sinvic tlx with eph cp4 room stat

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Hi I'm looking at replacing my sunvic tlx room stat with a eph cp4 thermostat the sunvic is wired like the pic posted from what I've read the live and neutral go to the L & N terminals and the switched live yellow wire goes to terminal 3 on the eph can anyone confirm this or have any input im very new to wiring
 

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The original meter will work with or without the neutral, so it will need testing to see if there is a neutral present. But the main thing is what boiler and what configuration. the eph cp4 thermostat is designed to run as master slave and it works the motorised valves independent to the boiler, the latter is connected using OpenTherm.

So the whole way they work is different. You may be able to use it without OpenTherm but they are about the only thermostat system designed to work with an OpenTherm boiler and zone valves, most are designed to use TRV's as zone valves.

Very clever system, but not really a straight swap for the sunvic tlx.
 
Yes, but if your Sunvic is mains switching (likely) then you’ll need a link to common (2) at the eph.
 
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I have looked at the instructions for the CP4 and it shows the general diagram 1696312835261.png and the wiring diagram 1696312935785.png and the main point is the temperature sensing part is wireless connected to the units, and the units have connections for the motorised valves and independent connections for the OpenTherm to the boiler. So they are not direct replacements for a unit which combines all in one unit and does not require batteries or mains to power it.

I think the EPH thermostat is very good, and I am sure you could link Com (2) and L and connect to red, use ON (3) to yellow, and N to blue, but you must ensure the old Sunvic is 230 volt powered and there is a neutral. I have not looked up the Sunvic I am going by the labels you have put on the picture.

However it seems a bit daft to have such a good thermostat and then not wire it to use are the functions you have paid so much money to get.
 
The sunvic I've currently got fitted is 240v mains powered I'll Try and fit it today and see what happens don't really want to be opening a boiler up and messing about in there without knowing what I'm doing but I'm going to have to to see the way it's connected
 
I have to admit the way gas boilers connect to the electrics does with some makes seem daft, we have new landlord laws which require the inspector doing an EICR to open the boiler connections to check on if the correct cable retention etc has been employed, and then gas safe rules saying unless gas safe registered you should not remove covers.

I personally feel if one needs to be gas safe to remove covers it should be clearly marked on the covers to say so. I know since I did remove covers on my mothers Bosch there were no seals on it, however on my old house, there were seals, and removing covers could allow combustion gases to leave the boiler and enter the garage where it was housed, and there was no warning on the covers.

However in the flat where my boiler is now situated I have a CO² alarm to alert should combustion gases escape, and I see no real difference using oil or gas as far as combustion gases go. And the covers on my oil boiler simply clip into place.

OpenTherm as far as I am aware it not available for oil boilers, it is a gas only feature? The whole idea of a boiler modulating (turning up and down for output) seems to be a gas only feature. And with my late mothers boiler there was no way to electrically alter the boilers output. The only control she had was the temperature of the return water.

I walked into her living room and the heat hit me, her wall thermostat had failed to contact the base unit and the heating had failed to turn off.

But it should not have mattered, the main problem was when the heating system was installed no one had set the TRV's and lock shield valves, and to be frank I could have not done it if I had not been living in the house.

We zone our heating systems, in the main we use TRV's, I have both TRV's and zone valves, the latter controls if main house or flat is heated, rather pointless having up and down stairs split, as upstairs we have repurposed the bedrooms into craft and office rooms, so zone valves upper and lower would be a bit pointless, using the 9 programmable TRV's works better, but many homes are split upper and lower floor within the same house, and the EPH thermostat allows one to work with that split.

I note the Drayton Wiser system also has a three zone thermostat and that one does link to TRV heads, not read up how it works, but the EPH does not connect to TRV's only connects to the zone valves. And one can select master or slave. So some connections are hard wired and some are wireless connections.

So it combines digital and analogue control. So it has analogue control of boiler, and digital control of zone valves.
 
Anyone any ideas it didn't power up I don't know what I've done wrong will I need to done anything with my horstman h17xl timer
 
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This is how my horstmann h17xl is wired
 

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No, do not link N to 1. I take it you’ve turned it on at the horstmann?
 
Yes the horstman is working fine and the old sunvic worked fine also this just won't power on
 
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Yes the horstman is working fine and the old sunvic worked fine also this just won't power on
Could be a dodgy unit, or maybe the permanent live isn’t permanent? Any test equipment?
 
What was supposed to be perm live and switched live weren't correct the yellow was permanent and red was switched and i just put the link where it was supposed to be then it worked
 
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