Sockets for washing maching etc under worktop ?

[STEVEROG]

Which is preffered (maybe neither) from the two options below...

1. Single 13A sockets (switched) located underneath the worktop, wired into the kitchen ring (not on spurs)

2. Single 13A sockets (no switch on actual socket) located underneath the worktop, connected to the kitchen ring via switched fused spur with switches located above the worktop directly above the socket.

All too often I see option 1. Electrically some may argue that its superior as its 'in the ring'. However, most of the time you need to pull the appliance out of its hole in order to switch off, not ideal.

Option 2 seems much more sensible to me.

Comments?

Steve

 

[Spark123]

It depends wether or not the appliance is fitted or free standing. If it is fitted then you need an isolator above the worktop or somewhere accessible.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Which is preffered (maybe neither) from the two options below...

1. Single 13A sockets (switched) located underneath the worktop, wired into the kitchen ring (not on spurs)

2. Single 13A sockets (no switch on actual socket) located underneath the worktop, connected to the kitchen ring via switched fused spur with switches located above the worktop directly above the socket.

All too often I see option 1. Electrically some may argue that its superior as its 'in the ring'. However, most of the time you need to pull the appliance out of its hole in order to switch off, not ideal.

Option 2 seems much more sensible to me.

Comments?

Steve

With 2 you have two fuses involved. The fuse in the FCU and another under the worktop that the appliance plugs into. Not the best design as either fuse could pop under fault conditions.
IMO better to have the FCU above with a fuse and a flex connector plate under the worktop with the appliance wired in.

 

[phatboy]

My preference would be a unswitched socket below the counter (A slim one if required), and an unfused switch with neon above the counter. A 20amp DP switch should be ok, assuming there is just a single socket below.

I find the neon helpful as an indication if the switch has been turned off or a fault in the circuit, particularly for the fridge and freezer!

That is how my appliances are set up.

 

[STEVEROG]

First off, big thanks for the input gents.

Good point about the doubling up of fuses, I agree its not a good idea.

All things considered I think the Phatboy approach seems the right approach for non 'fitted' Washers/dryers. Regarding "Neons" I sort of like Neons but only because I can't let go of the past (I like valves more than transistors as well!). This should all be LED by now!

Steve

 

[plugwash]

This should all be LED by now!

Using LEDs as indicators for mains stuff is a bit of a pain. If you go for a simple series resistor (and some kind of protection against reverse voltages) then you waste a few watts of power in the resistor. A capacitive dropper avoids the power dissapation problem but requires pretty big capacitors afaict. So you really need some kind of active drive circuit to use a LED as a mains indicator with reasonable efficiency.

 

[dcornwell81]

Hi Guys - long time reader, first time poster here.

We have the plugs above the worktop setup for both the dishwasher and the washing machine, both on spurs from the kitchen ring. I'm looking to move the sockets beneath the line of the worktop and put a switch above for access. From what I can see this work wouldn't be notifiable as it's not installing anything additional, just changing the configuration. Does anyone know if I'm right or should I get an electrician round?

Thanks.

 

[JohnD]

option 2

Appliance fuses, typically, blow once every never, so the inconvenience will be approximately nil.

 

[phatboy]

option 2

Appliance fuses, typically, blow once every never, so the inconvenience will be approximately nil.

and when they do blow, its usually the appliance at fault anyway, so has to come out of its hole!!

 

[sparkwright]

Option 2 is the superior way, though if integrated appliances are to be fitted, there isn't room for the unswitched socket with a plug plugged into it.

Option 1 isn't an option - you wouldn't put a socket behind an appliance without a means of isolating the appliance. You would fit the socket inside a cupboard, and drill a neat circular hole in the back of the cupboard so the plug can be threaded through, without having to remove it from the flex.

But option 2 is the way it should be done.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

and when they do blow, its usually the appliance at fault anyway, so has to come out of its hole!!

I'm not convinced of that.

Scenario:

Appliance which as been working 100% fine, not a trace of flaky behaviour, fuse in the plug goes.

Do you:

a) Immediately start to dismantle the appliance looking for a fault

or

b) Replace the fuse and power it up again to see what happens

? (be honest....)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm looking to move the sockets beneath the line of the worktop and put a switch above for access. From what I can see this work wouldn't be notifiable as it's not installing anything additional, just changing the configuration. Does anyone know if I'm right or should I get an electrician round?

You are wrong - you're adding switches.