Sound Insulation - Saarpor Latex Sound Proof Wall Liner

[ricky101]

Hi,

We are about to redecorate the lounge and have a little trouble with tv noise coming though the party wall which is breeze , air gap , breeze and the other side is about 2ft lower than us.

Have seen the above new (?) product and would be interested to know if anyone has used it and if its as good as they make out ?

Have seen the other threads about soundproofing but those methods need a large depth and that would mean major works for us.

Also wondered if there was anything we could place down the cavity as we could drill access holes in the loft wall and drop something down, though not sure what would be effective , safe or legal ??

 

[phatboy]

Sounds like snake oil, and am absolute disaster waiting to happen!

There is a good reason people use established methods....

 

[oldbutnotdead]

That pretty graphic is a tad misleading. Sound is measured using Decibels (dB). Sound measured at (for example) 93 dB is twice as loud as sound measured at 90 dB. So using their pretty graph, if next doors' arguments at 3kHz are audible to you (60dB), their product will reduce that measured level to approx 59dB. Still audible. Their vacuum cleaner at 80dB will go down to 78dB. Guess what- you'll still hear it. Wouldn't bother with it

 

[endecotp]

If it really is just a “little trouble” with noise that you’re suffering then maybe it will help, but it’s really not very substantial.

Here is something that would work:

https://www.soundstop.co.uk/soundproofing/soundproofing-walls/Sm20-wall-solution4.php

This claims it gives you -16dB, which means it eliminates about 98% of the noise amplitude if you want to think of it in that way (guestimated in my head, could be wrong).

 

[ricky101]

Hi,

Thanks all, thats why I was asking as no idea if it was any good or not.

As mentioned by @endecotp have also just been looking at that soundstop and similar products which do look a bit more like the real thing but the down side seems to be as we have dot and dab plaster board over the breeze blocks , most similar sites say it should be removed before fitting those sound panels.

In a way that would be good as the room is narrow enough, hence looking for a 'thin' solution, but clearly a lot of work removing the old plaster/boards.

 

[phatboy]

You could rip all of the old board off the wall in a couple of hours, and get the new material on within the day. Then it just needs skimming, or just jointing and painting.

It's not as bad as it seems!

 

[ricky101]

Hi,

After a bit more looking around seems using the M20 sound blocking panels with acoustic plasterboard is the only way for us due to its minimal thickness, anything like an extra stud wall is way too thick for our narrow room.

Also seems removal of the existing dot and dab plasterboard is essential and that the breeze block be treated with a parge coat of Gyproc Soundcoat Plus. ( just found a localish stockist of this rare product ! )

What does seem the painful thing is the price of those M20 sound panels, without the plasterboard attached, seems they cost from £30 Plus per sq meter, which sounds a lot for recycled old tyres ; anyone know of a better price or as good alternative ? Suppose the key factor is its strength to allow things to be glued together rather than using fixings.

Anyone have first hand experience of this M20 sound panel method ?

 

[endecotp]

What does seem the painful thing is the price of those M20 sound panels, without the plasterboard attached, seems they cost from £30 Plus per sq meter, which sounds a lot for recycled old tyres ; anyone know of a better price or as good alternative ?

I recall stories about using car floor mats..... But realistically, no.

If you remove the existing dot+dab plasterboard, how much depth do you have? Resilient bars + 2 layers of soundblock plasterboard is another option.

 

[ricky101]

I recall stories about using car floor mats..... But realistically, no.

If you remove the existing dot+dab plasterboard, how much depth do you have? Resilient bars + 2 layers of soundblock plasterboard is another option.

Hi,

The dots and existing plasterboard only take up about 25mm from the holes we have tested.

Seems those RB and plasterboards need about 100mm, which we do not want to loose in our narrow lounge, whereas the M20 panels etc will take about 45mm.

Thought the use of the M20 panels was the easier way to decouple the wall from the two layers of plasterboard but without taking up the space, though hard to establish if there is much difference in their effectiveness .

Though there are several companies selling these sound products, with no first hand comments from members of this big forum it does make us wonder about how good they are; perhaps someone who has used them might see this post this weekend, though wonder if I should start a fresh thread with M20 in the title, unless these is a way to edit the title of this post ?

 

[endecotp]

Seems those RB and plasterboards need about 100mm

No, more like 15mm for the resilient bars plus 25mm for two layers of PB = 40mm. Where do you get 100mm from?

hard to establish if there is much difference in their effectiveness

Personally I’d trust the numbers at soundstop.co.uk, though they’re obviously not independent.

no first hand comments from members of this big forum

I think that probably reflects on the price of them....

 

[ricky101]

No, more like 15mm for the resilient bars plus 25mm for two layers of PB = 40mm. Where do you get 100mm from? .

Had not really looked a RB as the M20 panels seem to make the whole process every easy.

Many RB examples show as being fitted to wooden battens, but have now seen some where the RB are fitted to the wall blocks, but seems they also need some filling and some even use rubber membranes; not sure if the final cost is any different between the two system ?

Soundstops RB systems seem a lot thicker than the 40mm you mention, can you point me in the direction of such a system please ?

Personally I’d trust the numbers at soundstop.co.uk, though they’re obviously not independent.

Can I ask why, is it from personal experience of them or just that you know the info / detail they quote are valid ?

thanks

 

[endecotp]

Soundstops RB systems seem a lot thicker than the 40mm you mention, can you point me in the direction of such a system please ?

As I said above, 15mm (IIRC) for the resilient bars plus 2 layers of PB.

Yes that requires that you can fix the bars directly to the blockwork, which will require a good smooth surface and some thought about the best fixings. Battens make that aspect easier but take up space.

Can I ask why, is it from personal experience of them or just that you know the info / detail they quote are valid ?

No personal experience.

 

[ricky101]

As I said above, 15mm (IIRC) for the resilient bars plus 2 layers of PB.

Yes that requires that you can fix the bars directly to the blockwork, which will require a good smooth surface and some thought about the best fixings. Battens make that aspect easier but take up space

Hi,

Well that introduces another area for folk like us who know little about this subject !

Seems SoundStop offer their Genie Clips that can fasten directly to the blockwork, but looking around seems many such installations also use timer battens plus a thin rubber type of layer between the two plaster boards.
Would direct fitting the RB to the blockwork affect its noise isolation ?

RB is probably a slightly cheaper method than the M20 panels, but what we cannot establish is which method would give the better sound reduction ??

One additional area we have been looking at, the wall will probably end up being refaced /replastered one way or another, the gas fire also has to come out and sealed up etc, so we could remove a 450x225 mm block at time and fit Rockwool Sound insulation in there, we could easily reach in and cover over one sq mtr for each block we remove and replace, which we would think will give a good reduction to compliment the plasterboard layer, m20 or RB type ...?
We have the time for such a job, just if its worth it or not ?