Splitting floors into 2 zones

[BuggBairn]

I'm hoping to retrofit 2 x 22mm motorised valves into the outlet side of my boiler pipework to create 2 separate heating zones. As it stands the boiler outlet Tees off in 2 directions, upstairs and downstairs.

My hope is that during the night I can have upstairs Rads on and downstairs off, during the day vice-versa.

Fitting the valves locally to the boiler won't be an issue. My confusion lies with how best to program these valves. For simplicity I was thinking about controlling these zones timewise and not temp related (I'd let TRV's cover that requirement). That would also negate the need to run cables to wall mounted Thermostats.

Are simple timer controllers available that I can retrofit in the proximity of the boiler and motorised valves ? If so can someone please give me a few examples.

 

[muggles]

Any two-channel (or 3-channel if you have a hot water cylinder) programmer will do what you want. Have a look at wireless programmable room thermostats though - they'll give you both time and temperature control without the need to run cables through your house

 

[Dan Robinson]

Don't forget the bypass.

 

[BuggBairn]

Any two-channel (or 3-channel if you have a hot water cylinder) programmer will do what you want. Have a look at wireless programmable room thermostats though - they'll give you both time and temperature control without the need to run cables through your house

Thanks.
No water cylinder present
In respect of going down the two channel programmer route would a Horstmann CentaurPlus C17 Timeswitch suffice? Would I be right in saying that my two zones would be the HW & CH outputs on the module and that they would simply hold back a 240V feed to the motorised valves by use of internal relays?

I've no experience of going down the wireless route, my house is awash with wireless Internet, baby monitors and even wireless baby cameras. Would there be a chance of interference?
At the motorised valve end of the setup what type of hardware provides the power to open/shut the valves?

 

[BuggBairn]

Don't forget the bypass.

I believe my Boiler has an internal bypass valve if that's what you're referring to (Vaillant Ecotec Plus 837)

 

[simond]

True, the internal bypass is fine.

I would use Evohome and get 12 zones instead.

 

[BuggBairn]

True, the internal bypass is fine.

I would use Evohome and get 12 zones instead.

I've had my fingers burnt with e-trvs. I currently have 15 peggleir itemps that are proving to be more hassle than the £25 each I paid for them.

I figure that if I go back to conventional trv's which I've kept and buy 2 motorised valves and a programmer it'll only set me back £150 ish for a more simple, interchangeable and robust means of control.

 

[Dan Robinson]

HR92's are far superior to Pegler's efforts (although when I tried them fro a year at home they worked very well.

You still need a thermostat to act as an interlock. Relying on TRV's alone will waste energy.

 

[simond]

I've got 26 HR80s (predecessor to HR92) installed in 2003 in my house - and not a single one has failed. That goes for most of the other HR80s we installed until around 2012, apart from the last 6 months of production. HR92s haven't been giving any problems, about one in every 500 or so.

 

[BuggBairn]

Those HR92 units do look the part but at £50 a pop I'm afraid I don't have a spare £750. How are they programmed? The itemps use software and transmit your timings through a USB dongle type gizmo. Software is free and the USB dongle was £20. I could possibly trial one or two units as long as there aren't any expensive additional requirements.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Evohome Base Unit is needed.

You could get one of those and a DT92e or T87RF and start the system off then add the HR92's later when the budget allows.

Gives you internet control then if that floats your boat.