Steinel PIR Floodlight Question

[MFRacing]

Almost certainly inside the "junction box" between the lamp and the PIR into which you wire your cable there will be terminal blocks for your wires.

Three of them will be labelled L N and E
L is where you connect the Live from the commons in the switch.
N is where you connect the Neutral from the FCU
E is the earth

There is almost certainly a fourth terminal ( maybe labelled SL or S ) joining a wire from the PIR ( probably red in colour ) to a wire into the lamp ( probably white ) that is the Switched Live and to this you add the wire from the L1 in the switch.

Ok great. I've now just ordered the lamp so fingers crossed I can get it to do what I want it to do once it turns up. I might wire it all up on the bench first and see if I can get it all to work, ie install my FCU inside the house and before drilling through the wall, wire it up inside. I'll report back with findings!

Thank again.

 

[riveralt]

Thanks but the lamp and PIR are one unit?

Assuming you have the lamp TTC has posted the instructions for, then the lamp has a back plate and the main lamp unit both of which come apart.
The back plate has a (fixed) terminal block - the main lamp unit is pre-wired to the other half of the terminal block (loose).
To operate the lamp as you require you need to bring both live and neutral from your power source through a dual pole 20A switch (You can also use a standard switch which just connects the live in and out and use a terminal block for the Neutral connections - Earths go to the back box earth point.
Simply connect your incoming supply LNE to the back plate (fixed) terminal block as per instructions and then connect the main lamp unit (loose) terminal block to the
fixed terminal block and away you go.
If completing this simple connection is unclear then perhaps this work is beyond your ability.

 

[MFRacing]

Thanks but the lamp and PIR are one unit?

Assuming you have the lamp TTC has posted the instructions for, then the lamp has a back plate and the main lamp unit both of which come apart.
The back plate has a (fixed) terminal block - the main lamp unit is pre-wired to the other half of the terminal block (loose).
To operate the lamp as you require you need to bring both live and neutral from your power source through a dual pole 20A switch (You can also use a standard switch which just connects the live in and out and use a terminal block for the Neutral connections - Earths go to the back box earth point.
Simply connect your incoming supply LNE to the back plate (fixed) terminal block as per instructions and then connect the main lamp unit (loose) terminal block to the
fixed terminal block and away you go.
If completing this simple connection is unclear then perhaps this work is beyond your ability.

Thanks that all makes sense apart from where does the switched live go? On my understanding what you have explained above will just turn the light off and off (ie just supply power to it or not)?

 

[MFRacing]

Thanks but the lamp and PIR are one unit?

Assuming you have the lamp TTC has posted the instructions for, then the lamp has a back plate and the main lamp unit both of which come apart.
The back plate has a (fixed) terminal block - the main lamp unit is pre-wired to the other half of the terminal block (loose).
To operate the lamp as you require you need to bring both live and neutral from your power source through a dual pole 20A switch (You can also use a standard switch which just connects the live in and out and use a terminal block for the Neutral connections - Earths go to the back box earth point.
Simply connect your incoming supply LNE to the back plate (fixed) terminal block as per instructions and then connect the main lamp unit (loose) terminal block to the
fixed terminal block and away you go.
If completing this simple connection is unclear then perhaps this work is beyond your ability.

Thanks that all makes sense apart from where does the switched live go? On my understanding what you have explained above will just turn the light off and off (ie just supply power to it or not)?

Ps. Yes it's the same lamp as the instructions.

 

[riveralt]

Reading those instructions the SL is already pre-wired into the main lamp unit (loose) terminal block and you have no need to worry about it.
Your only concern is to provide the LNE to the back plate fixed terminal block.

 

[MFRacing]

Reading those instructions the SL is already pre-wired into the main lamp unit (loose) terminal block and you have no need to worry about it.
Your only concern is to provide the LNE to the back plate fixed terminal block.

Ok thanks but I'm still unsure how just wiring up the standard LNE through a switch will give me the three modes of On/Off/PIR. Sorry if I'm missing something.

 

[riveralt]

Ok thanks but I'm still unsure how just wiring up the standard LNE through a switch will give me the three modes of On/Off/PIR. Sorry if I'm missing something.

Switch on = PIR on = Light on when PIR activated for timer set period.
Switch off = PIR off = no light
Switch on and off - x times with x seconds = Light permanently on. (check instructions for x)

 

[MFRacing]

Ok thanks but I'm still unsure how just wiring up the standard LNE through a switch will give me the three modes of On/Off/PIR. Sorry if I'm missing something.

Switch on = PIR on = Light on when PIR activated for timer set period.
Switch off = PIR off = no light
Switch on and off - x times with x seconds = Light permanently on. (check instructions for x)

Nope we've already concluded that this lamp doesn't have the override (quick switch on and off) function. That's the whole issue.

Thanks

 

[bernardgreen]

 

[MFRacing]

View attachment 81987

Thank you very much. That helps so much!! So are you saying i don't need a extra switch? I can just use the FCU switch? If that's the case what i don't understand is that once the FCU is switched to off, no power will be going anywhere?

 

[riveralt]

Just looking at Bernardgreen's diagram - if I interpret it right you need 3 core and earth - N and Earth (out terminal) as normal then the two remaining cores go into the live out terminal - call them PL and SL.
You then have a second switch through which the incoming PL, N, E run to and terminate in a terminal block . The incoming SL goes to the switch Com terminal.
From the second switch you have the 3 core and earth with the outgoing PL, N, E connected to the terminal block before running to the back plate LNE.
The outgoing SL connects to the switch L1 and then onto the L2 at the lamp back plate.
If I have that right you could accommodate both FCU and switch in a grid switch formation. FCU on alone with give you normal PIR and override when both switches are on.

 

[Taylortwocities]

In Bernards diagram. Ignore the box marked lamp.

The box marked PIR is your combo PIR & lamp.
In his diagram, brown is L, black is N and the purple wire is the L2 connection. Do not forget the earth too.

So you need 3wire+earth cable from the switch to the PIR/light.

 

[MFRacing]

In Bernards diagram. Ignore the box marked lamp.

The box marked PIR is your combo PIR & lamp.
In his diagram, brown is L, black is N and the purple wire is the L2 connection. Do not forget the earth too.

So you need 3wire+earth cable from the switch to the PIR/light.

Ok cool. I think I get it now. I need to buy a two gang double pole switch to make this all work. I'll buy a ip rated one so I can put the switch outside.

 

[MFRacing]

OK guys, had a little test this weekend in my living room . Wired the FCU up with a plug, and then made all the connection as per the advice, and it worked first time! (Ignore the lack of earth, I was just saving time) One switch for sensor, and then one switch for it on all the time. Just what I wanted. Thanks so much to everyone that helped. I'm now going to get it stuck up outside, got some nice IP rated rubber 4 core cable, and a huge drill to drill through the wall!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykcozdcwk2gmz69/image1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w2dymx5qm7px44w/image2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n5w20sbzkf8to5f/image3.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzlurp9lzklzfo4/image4.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cc010qptn6x2sxw/image5.JPG?dl=0

From the pics, does it all look ok?

Thanks again