Stopping Hot Water

sime10 said:
Yes it merits every time because I can keep my costs down
How does spending exactly the same amount of time wasting water, as it would (for you) to change a gate valve, affect your costs one iota?

And no unless you are of ethnic majority no rascism is meant
Some remarks are racist even though the intent wasn't there. You wrote something that appeared to reveal a dislike of selling excess water to the English. If this wasn't racist then please explain what it was.

and as for slow, maybe but the job is done right the first time
In more then 99% of jobs you're throwing away water (and time) when simply closing the gate valve would be adequate.
 
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How does spending exactly the same amount of time wasting water, as it would (for you) to change a gate valve, affect your costs one iota?


If I drain the water I would not have to worry about changing a gate valve, I am not worried about wating water the authorities are wasting a hell of a lot more than me draining a 25 gallon tank doesn't worry me in the slightest.
I am keeping the cost of my time down.

I am biting my tongue with the racism thing because the Mods will kick me
 
Regarding gatevalves i think the quality of the majority is cheap n nasty possibly because they are for domestic market therefore manufacturers build to suit , the problem i have is when opening after isolation thats when the spindle (that has not been hardly used in its life) breaks , how frustrating at the end of a long day .
 
I don't remember ever encountering one that I got to shut and then wouldn't open again - you must be an utter butcher to achieve that.

I find loads of em! Nowt to do with butchering them and everything to do with dezincification of the brass
 
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To avoid all of the above get a 15mm service valve (open) with a short piece of 15mm copper at the outlet, connect a hosepipe to this copper and put the end of hose to a drain. Cut the hot pipe and quickly fit the service valve (you will get a little water splashed about, use a dustsheet) once nipped up turn service valve off, job done . :D :D :D Easy. To relieve a bit of pressure you could open the other hot taps while you are doing this. I know this seems a bit hairy but its a doddle. P.S. Make sure you have the direction of the valve correct first :LOL: Even easier use a speedfit valve but you'll need to cut the pipe with a pipeslice(no burrs)
 
Slugbabydotcom said:
I don't remember ever encountering one that I got to shut and then wouldn't open again - you must be an utter butcher to achieve that.
I find loads of em!
Oh I find loads of them that would behave like that if I was heavy-handed. :rolleyes:

I coax them shut, leave them to cool and then wind them in and out until they move more easily. Then, usually, not only do they shut off more fully, but the ones that would otherwise jam in the shut position are happy to open again later on. If ever I find one that won't, I'd change it, which would take about 15 minutes. For those valves that are jammed open, I change them, which also takes about 15 minutes.

It isn't, as they say, rocket science.
 
How many people open a gate valve until it hits the stop, and leave it that way?
I was told to open valves fully , then back off the handwheel 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. That can indicate if a valve is open or closed by feel. It also gives a bit of room to waggle it free if it does stick.

I've had to back off the packing gland on a few valves to free them.

Incidentally, re-packing a 4" gate valve gland with 120PSI of steam behind it can be a fun passtime :p
 
TicklyT said:
How many people open a gate valve until it hits the stop, and leave it that way?
Most non-engineers, which includes many plumbers. :(
 
Thanks to everyone who posted for their help. (in particular softus & sime10), the differing points of views were invaluable for a novice like myself.

After reading all the posts I had planned to just close the main stop and drain the system as it would have been probably less agro all round. However my system was installed only about 18 months ago, so I guessed there was a good chance the gate valve would be in good working order. I had a look at it and it seemed to turn without much effort and so decided to use this to stop the flow to the cylnder. Had it not been so easy to shift (even a moderate amount of resistance), I guess I would have just drained the Cold water tank.

One question I do have is if gate valve's are so flaky then why do plumbers fit them?

Thanks for all your help.

(this has got to be one of the best diy forums I've ever visited)

Jeet
 
jeetmistry said:
One question I do have is if gate valve's are so flaky then why do plumbers fit them?
Flaky gate valves are flaky; some plumbers, and most builders, fit them in order to save money. It's a false economy.

I only buy components of the best quality, so the gate valves I fit aren't flaky.
 

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