Strange alarm fault


Many thanks for that. I wonder what the difference is between these and what I have used apart from the built in resistors. Perhaps the reed switch is of a better quality? A reed switch seems such a simple device that I would have thought that they either work or don't <G> The one on my exit door has been fine following the triggering of the other day. Could it have been a glitch in the control box perhaps? I've not checked for loose connections on the exit door circuit in there, but the box is not subject to any vibration or interference.

Cheers

Richard
 
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You know what Scanny tech support would say - check for induced AC. This means that you should set your meter to AC volts (20V range?) and measure between Earth and the +12V and Earth and 0V. If you have anything more than a couple of volts, fit an ACT1313 Spike Suppressor.
 
You know what Scanny tech support would say - check for induced AC. This means that you should set your meter to AC volts (20V range?) and measure between Earth and the +12V and Earth and 0V. If you have anything more than a couple of volts, fit an ACT1313 Spike Suppressor.

Many thanks for that.

Cheers

Richard
 
Guys thanks for the previous assistance. As an intrem test because it would not be a direct replacement to fit the suggested better quality magnetic contacts, this is what I did. I took the same model of switch as was being used for the exit door from a high up window and used it on the entry door that was triggering the false alarms.

All was fine for about three weeks, then during the day when I had set the alarm and was working outside a couple of hundred yards away the alarm went off. The log clearly showed that it was again the exit door that had set it off and I was the only person on site at the time so it was a false trigger again.

The same thing happened a couple of days ago so now I'm having again to address the situation! The replacement exit door switch had been in use where it was borrowed from for a number of years with no false alarms on that circuit. I feel that the finger starts to point elsewhere on the exit door circuit. Unfortunatly I do not have any spare alarm circuits available on the board I can use to test it. Just for the record it is about a ten foot cable run between the alarm circuit board and the exit door.

Hope someone can make additional suggestions.

Cheers

Richard :(
 
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Swap the colours used around in the cable. (Ideally test them all for continuity, looking for similar results on each).

Swap two zones around on panel.
 
As Lectrician says - swap pair and/or zone. This should tell you whether it's the zone on the panel or the cable/contact.

It's unlikely to be the cable because, if you've got resistors on the contact, a cable fault would give you a tamper rather than an alarm.

Did you check or change the magnet in the door? I've known the magnet become detached ftom the front 'plate' and set off down an overly long hole, twisting as it goes. :eek:
 
As Lectrician says - swap pair and/or zone. This should tell you whether it's the zone on the panel or the cable/contact.

It's unlikely to be the cable because, if you've got resistors on the contact, a cable fault would give you a tamper rather than an alarm.

Did you check or change the magnet in the door? I've known the magnet become detached ftom the front 'plate' and set off down an overly long hole, twisting as it goes. :eek:

Many thanks. I'm hoping to get to it later today. Every time this false alarm happens there is never a problem resetting it and I have tried thunping the door when set and it holds fine. When I open the door when set I have to open it quite a bit before it triggers so I think the magnet is fine.

Cheers

Richard
 

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