toilet installation checklist..any additions

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Cambridgeshire
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Just trying to summarize close coupled toilet installation tips gleaned from sources including this site before I go ahead. Any additional tips and advice, I would be grateful..

1) check all seals and fittings (such as the doughnut between cistern and pan) and the loo porcelian itself for imperfections that might cause leaks

2) The internal workings inside the cistern I am assuming are attached watertight. Check all are fitted tight.

3)use appropriate waste connector to existing waste outlet. Dont silicone this in if possible.

4)silicone or do not silicone the doughnut joint between cistern and pan as you wish/feel lucky

5)no screw holes to attach cistern to wall so silicone or no more nails it in place??? Or just relax and silicone seal the top join with the wall. Pan will be screwed to 2cm sheet wood floor

6) we are going from a so called low level system (cistern mounted on wall) to a close coupled. I will have to go thru the plasterboard wall behind low and lower the inlet water pipe with a compression fiting......great fun

7)will fit isolation valve

8) has internal overflow so dont have to reconnect to old overflow pipe

anything else?
 
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Hi there,

These are my answers, othere may differ.

1) If toilet is from Pee&Poo or similar shed the donut washer will be made of foam. BIN it and get a decent rubber one of same size from merhants.

2) Yes fine

3) Never silicone pan connector, get rize shap one sto start with and should have no problems, get mcalpine brand. (mutts nuts)

4) No need to silicone donut washer in place, it is held by cistern connecting bolts.

5) Depends on how solid the cistern sits on the pan when all bolted together. IF you have to use anything use silicone and use as little as possible as it can be a beatch to remove if any future maintenance is required.

6) If you can use soldered fittings, if not compression ok.

7) OK

Rico
 
doughnut is rubber (the loo is Lecico atlas) and looks substantial

will have to compress join to connect to existing (wet) pipe

got zinc coated screws, a good point
 
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Thats "real brass" not the pathetic stuff that they reckon to make them from these days, "imitation brass" or "brass effect".

Get real brass screws :D

I prefer flat blade driver ones for this application as they tend to be easier to remove when they have been in for years.
 

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