Underperforming Electric Ladder Radiator

[Glyn1959]

Hi, I have recently purchased a ladder radiator for my downstairs shower room. It came with an electric element (already fitted and sealed) and a thermostat I fitted separately.

Based on the measurements of the room and the passage way outside it (separated by a door), degree of insulation, outside walls, etc. I used two different BTU calculators. Result 1 gave a required BTU of 2,020 to 2,475 and Result 2 gave a required BTU of 2,155 BTU.

To be on the safe side, I chose a radiator that produced an output of 2,883 BTU see link: http://www.lunaspas.co.uk/acatalog/White_flat_electric_ladder_rail_1200.html

However, now I have fitted it, the heat output is useless! The radiator has to be on for say 6 hours before it is hand hot. The radiator barely takes the chill off the shower room (with the door shut).

I cannot see how I could go wrong wiring the thermostat and fixing the thermostat to the radiator is simply by tightening a plastic nut.

Have I misunderstood the BTU requirement?

Do the facts suggest that the radiator element could be faulty?

Your opinions would be appreciated before I contact the company.

Cheers.

 

[Chri5]

I think your find that you've been hoodwinked.

No element will supply an energy rating of 2000+ BTU (300 BTU is about the most a simple element will supply).

The radiator you chosse CAN be wet plumbed and I suspect the energy rating suggested is when the rad is plumbed as per a rad on a CH boiler system.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No element will supply an energy rating of 2000+ BTU (300 BTU is about the most a simple element will supply).

300W, surely, approx 1000 BTU/h? 300 BTU/h is 88W - nobody makes them that small.

And you may in practice not be able to buy a 2000-3000 BTU/h electric rail, but there's no obvious reason why you shouldn't - that's only about 600-900W.

The radiator you chosse CAN be wet plumbed and I suspect the energy rating suggested is when the rad is plumbed as per a rad on a CH boiler system.

He hasn't said which one he bought, and for each of the 3 sizes they list all 4 options - electric only with & without thermostat, and dual-fuel with & without thermostat.

If he's got no CH pipes to plumb it into I doubt if he'd have bought a dual-fuel one....

 

[Glyn1959]

Hi, the model I bought is thermostatic sealed with electric element fitted at a cost of £155!
This is one of the features of the shower room I did not cut corners on as adequate heat was essential as the room has two external walls and would (and has) become a "no-go" area in the colder months.
Am I left with a white elephant here?

 

[BS3036]

I think I'd be inclined to measure the current drawn, myself, and calculate the wattage. This would give you amunition to return the unit for a refund. I had a quick look round the web and saw towel rails up to 1kW, so it's not too much to expect that the unit you bought should have the heat output claimed.

 

[Glyn1959]

hi, Thanks for the response .. replies are getting more poitive!
Please advise on how to measure the current drawn.
Thanks

 

[BS3036]

OK. (Following is not supposed to sound patronising!) I kind of assumed that you had some electrical knowledge as you have just fitted a piece of electrical equipment into a special location. That aside, though, it depends if you have any measuring equipment.

Any measurement needs to be done with due attention the the danger of a shock to yourself or someone else.

Options would be to:
- put a multimeter on its 10A range, in series with the radiator element
- put a clamp meter (I bought one for about £15) round the phase connection (safest way, as no electrical connection)
- buy a power measuring socket from Maplin or wherever and plug the radiator into that.

EDIT: currently (!) on special offer:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=38343&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=power monitor&doy=28m1

Then A x V = W where V = 230 (but more likely 240 in practise).

 

[Chri5]

hi, Thanks for the response .. replies are getting more poitive!
Please advise on how to measure the current drawn.
Thanks

Whoops as BAS pointed out, I was referencing 300w element NOT 300 BTU.

With luck your element will have a sticker (at the cable end point before going inside the element) and this will detail the wattage of the element. All the radiators (electric only) I have fitted have always been a 300w element and although I don't know the precise output in BTU terms, it's no where near 2800 that you say you've spec'd.

Could you poke around for the suppliers paperwork and confirm from there was sized element is installed, post details and then the BTU range can be clarified.

Reason I suggested you have been hoodwinked, is that the supplier gives a fixed range BTU for each model advertised- This would vary depending on fuel used (wet CH, electric or duel)- There figures are fixed and hence I surmised that they have detailed the best BTU figure (which would be via wet CH).