Warm flow 70/90 white bird boiler, extra baffle?

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I have a warmflow 70/90 boiler, some 16 years old, rated at 84.7 % efficiency and has never failed. I replaced the baffles today as per diagram in the warmflow manual. They were actually ok, Two of them were starting to warp in parts, one was fine with the boiler was surprisingly clean considering it was never serviced before.

There are 3 baffles in total with a plate mounted on top of the last baffle. I could not help but notice there is enough room in the combustion chamber to add another baffle if I modify slightly (split into two parts to allow for entry through the top lid)

My question is would adding a 4th baffle in the correct orientation improve the boiler efficiency by allowing longer time for heat to transfer to the water jacket. The fact the boiler is pretty clean inside and the original baffles were not bad makes me think this thing is not over heating or over worked and might be able to handle another baffle??
I am sure the warmflow design engineers characterised this model fully to squeeze as much efficiency out of it as possible, but maybe not???? as energy effeciency was not a big issue back in the early 2000’s when this model came out? Just wondering if anyone out there has tried this before?
Thanks for any comments.
Patrick
 
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I would think so, there was possibly 4 baffles installed originally?, if not, ensure that the combustion gases are not obstructed in any way and a combustion analysis should be re taken after any modifications.
My 17 year old SE Firebird has 4 baffles, it states somewhere or other that the top baffle can/should be removed if the boiler return temperature is very low (doesn't give a figure), the flue temperature is 230/235C with a boiler return temp of 40/45C., top baffle had slight corrosion/erosion so just swapped it for one of the others about 8 years ago. (No, that wasn't its last service)
 
Back in the mist's of time I did this sort of thing.
I would advise unless you have access to flue gas analysis equipment/ flue draft gauge don't even try.
It's amazingly easy to turn a standard efficiency boiler into a non intended condenser .
Plus you can lose flue gas buoyancy which on a chimney type flue could lead to a less than good outcome.
 
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Hi Johntheo5 and Exodon,
Many thanks for the replies.

Cleaning the boiler and replacing the baffles was a good thing. I was in error in my ost, there are 4 baffles fitted, the capping plate is called a baffle according to manual. I think It’s best to get a plumber in to fine tune and optimise the system from this point on and make sure exhaust and combustion are good, I will discuss the addition of another baffle at this point, hopefully I can get a few more years of good service out of the white bird.

Thanks again lads
Patrick.
 

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