What went wrong?

Joined
12 Feb 2012
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Oxfordshire
Country
United Kingdom
So, I've been messing around with trying to paint some repaired plaster wall, with mixed results and cracking paint. I think I have a working solution now after 2 weeks, touch wood, but was hoping to get some advise what I did wrong in terms of the painting prep.

For your amusement, the story is thus. Probably should go under DIY disasters.

So, was painting downstairs toilet. Took off mirror. Painted room, let dry. Put on mirror. Overtightened screws. Mirror shattered. The bad luck commenced. New mirror purchased immediatey on wife instruction. Drilled 4 holes for mirror using template. 2 of the 4 holes hit pebbles in the breeze block, tried putting in shorter screw in wall plug, took chunk out of wall. Drilled additional 8 pilot holes until found acceptable locations that did not hit pebbles. Now had like 12 holes of which 4 were needed and two were super-size. Had flexible polyfilla to hand. Filled holes. Attemped to sand. Turns out this product does not go hard. Removed flexy polyfiller, holes now larger. Bought standard polyfiller. Filled holes, sanded. Painted filled areas and surrounding area with fairly thick layer of emulsion. Emulsion peeled off, when I picked at it it took all the paint underneath off with it even though paint was 5 years old! Used screwdriver to scrape off peeling emulsion. D'oh, managed to scratch plaster layer. Bought polyskim (basically paint on thinned polyfiller) to smooth now 2 ft2 area of wall and sanded it until perfectly smooth to touch.

So now I start again with a white polyfillered area in the middle of the previously painted wall and this is the bit that really confused me. To avoid it peeling again, I bought and applied a single coat of Dulux Plaster Sealer, which starts off blue and is supposed to finish up white after 24 hr drying time. I left it 24 hrs, it felt dry even though very slightly blue still, which I put down to being over white polyfiller.

I applied a thin layer of Dulux White Matt Emulsion. Let it dry for 6 hours (says 4 on in), and noted it had cracked and crazed after 1 hour (not peeled this time), particularly where the polyfiller met the old paint at the edge of the repaired patch, but also in vertical lines (I painted the polyskim on vertically). Sanded it a tiny bit to get it smooth, put another coat on as thin as I could. Same result with vertical cracks. Sanded it again. Put a very thick coat on to see if helped. Cracked even more this time!

Sanded it, then I tried watering down the paint by 10% and putting another coat on. Same result. Yes I was getting annoyed by this point and my wife was close to divorcing me.

Then I tried two different things. Sanded it again. I put on a thin layer of Dulux bathroom & kitchen (also water based) paint instead of the standard matt paint. I also left the door open to keep the room warmer, as the wall felt cold to the touch. If I was to guess the temperature of the wall by touch, I would say 10 degC. This is a small toilet room that is on the party wall of my semi and unheated.

Aha! It is now okay! So I put the standard matt paint over the top of the bathroom paint so it matches rest of wall, though I may decide to just use the bathroom paint throughout if it is more resilient.

I was just wondering why this happened. I mean in terms of preping and painting the plaster/polyskim. Could it be because it was too cold in there? Either causing the paint to craze or the sealer coat to not dry properly? The paint layers were certainly dry.

Or perhaps due to the sealer I used? Or should I have used a sealer, followed by an undercoat? Or a special primer? What are you supposed to use over this polyskim product? It says to prime the surface, the diy store recommended a plaster sealer.

Do you think the bathroom paint helped somehow? Could I use this as an undercoat in the future?

What fun we have...
 
Sponsored Links
Think the original paint peeling was that you never applied a mist coat to the filler. The filler just absorbed the water in the paint therefore the paint had nothing to cling and adhere to. Ive never sealed plaster before. I well diluted mist coat followed by a less diluted then the normal paint has always worked for me.
Maybe one of the pro's may shed some more light.
 
Just to add something to the pot!

Many of the DIY store ready mix fillers have other substances added to them, either to make sure they do not go hard in the tubs, or when used, go off so rock hard it makes sanding impossible. This has the effect of making them useless for paint to bond properly to them. Likewise, many 'sealers' are also very difficult for paint to stick to them, hence they 'craze' over after painting.

Using a PVA and water mix to seal over paint is also a big no no when doing prep on paintwork.

New pink plaster should be given a watered down coat of 'Vinyl' free paint, works for me every time on new plastered ceilings or walls and if after making a patch repair over some old paint, then you might find a coat of oil based undercoat far better before going back to emulsion finish coats.

I mostly only use the french 'T**pret powder fillers now as I got fed up with the poor working quality of polyfiller and others. At least with T**pret you can fill and sand between coats.
 
Just thought I'd reply as I think I have a definitive answer on this. A friend of mine is experienced with such things, and has advised that the ready mixed products like polyfiller contain PVC and this seems to make them difficult to sand and causes the paint to misbehave. I have been recommended to use a powder that you mix yourself if I'm doing large areas of wall...
 
Sponsored Links
It's an absorbency problem. Easi-fill is the worst of the worst. Use the lightweight fillers that feel like an empty bucket when you buy it.
 
Just don`t buy it of " an internet auction site" or market - the tub will probably be empty :mrgreen:
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top