wire my electric cooker in?

[davy_owen_88]

I didn’t keep all notes so can’t remember everything they did but a wire to my electric circuit had to be repaired, the clicking noise through my phone stopped and the loud buzzing from the fuse box stopped.
However the tripping continued but less often and only usually when I was using the cooker, e.g. I couldn’t use all the cooker lights at once or it would trip.

Was it the RCD that tripped before?

I can't understand why the phone clicking would have anything to do with the elecrics but I'm not a phone tech. so ignore me.

A buzzing could mean the MCB was very close to tripping point and might have been upgraded to a higher MCB along with a higher capacity cable.

The cable should NOT be twisted together and you should only remove enough insulation so that the insulation does not enter the terminals. The cable should be connected in the terminals not just twisted together.

Davy

 

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[davy_owen_88]

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[plugwash]

getting back to the original problem i suspect that either the cable from the cooker or the one from the wall is damaged in some way

at a minimum you need to replace the box with one of the proper depth, add a link to the box earth terminal and inspect the cables for damage (if damage is found use sleeving of the appropriate color to cover the damaged core)

 

[sar2012]

When trying to connect the wires to the terminals they wouldn’t fit, i.e. the black one kept coming out of the terminal and the red one would not fit in at all so the only way to fit them in was to twist the wires’ threads together – Then they still were not in all the way but were touching the terminals (I cannot take a picture of this because there is only enough space to push the screw driver to try and push them in).

The first time I took the wire socket off, the wires all came out of the terminals (I assume they came out when pulling the wire socket off).
I put the socket back on with the wires in the terminals but could only get them partially in.
When I took it off the second time, the red wire had slipped out and the black and the yellow/green were only partially in the terminals but they were still touching the terminals.

 

[sar2012]

Thanks for the congrats...

Test 1 – 3 results with wires out of socket box as in picture above.
It’s not tripping on any of the tests.
Test 1 – 3 results with wires in socket (not really knowing if they stayed in the terminals).
Not tripping here either.

I put the mcb, cooker wall socket and all cooker rings and oven on and it tripped after about 10 minutes. At least it’s not tripping just by switching the wall socket on now – Maybe the wires are better connected now?

Doesn’t appear to be any breaks in my cooker wire, looks good condition and strong.

What to do about the wire threads not fitting? I noticed a “Good grief” - what needs to be sorted out so the wires fit correctly in the terminals?

Regarding an earth connection needed in the metal box… I don’t understand. You mean the wire socket box? There are the earth green/yellow wires...

I need to have good reason for the housing to send an electrician or they might blame it on my appliances even if it's not and then bill me for it, in which case I would choose myself rather than use theirs...

 

[davy_owen_88]

What to do about the wire threads not fitting? I noticed a “Good grief” - what needs to be sorted out so the wires fit correctly in the terminals?

Regarding an earth connection needed in the metal box… I don’t understand. You mean the wire socket box? There are the earth green/yellow wires...

I need to have good reason for the housing to send an electrician or they might blame it on my appliances even if it's not and then bill me for it, in which case I would choose myself rather than use theirs...

The wires should never just be twisted together and left there. At the very least they should be terminated in terminal blocks and fitted in a suitable enclosure (choc-bloc). Could it be the fact the wires are twisted together (thus much bulkier than before) causing them not to fit in the terminals?

It looks like you have enough slack in the cables to cut off the twisted parts and terminate them properly. You should only remove as much insulation as you needed to fit in the terminals and no more. The conductors should be straight when they enter the terminals and not twisted in any way. Make sure you have undone the terminal screws all the way so you have less trouble getting the conductors in.

Regarding the earth connection - at the back of the metal back-box there should be a terminal with an earth connection symbol. You need to take a short length of conductor (sleeved yellow and green) from that terminal to the earth terminal on the front.

And if you need a good enough reason for housing to send out an electrician just send them this picture:

Davy

 

[sar2012]

What to do about the wire threads not fitting? I noticed a “Good grief” - what needs to be sorted out so the wires fit correctly in the terminals?

Regarding an earth connection needed in the metal box… I don’t understand. You mean the wire socket box? There are the earth green/yellow wires...

I need to have good reason for the housing to send an electrician or they might blame it on my appliances even if it's not and then bill me for it, in which case I would choose myself rather than use theirs...

The wires should never just be twisted together and left there. At the very least they should be terminated in terminal blocks and fitted in a suitable enclosure (choc-bloc). Could it be the fact the wires are twisted together (thus much bulkier than before) causing them not to fit in the terminals?

It looks like you have enough slack in the cables to cut off the twisted parts and terminate them properly. You should only remove as much insulation as you needed to fit in the terminals and no more. The conductors should be straight when they enter the terminals and not twisted in any way. Make sure you have undone the terminal screws all the way so you have less trouble getting the conductors in.

Regarding the earth connection - at the back of the metal back-box there should be a terminal with an earth connection symbol. You need to take a short length of conductor (sleeved yellow and green) from that terminal to the earth terminal on the front.

And if you need a good enough reason for housing to send out an electrician just send them this picture

Davy

The wires are in the terminals and box screwed in wall.

All I know is that I couldn’t get both sets of wires in the terminals without twisting them and I took the terminal screws off and I touched the earth wire from the cooker to the earthing plate at the back of the socket box. It looks like I am going to need an electrician.

I do know there’s a good enough reason for the housing to send an electrician but what I mean is that I need to know if the problem is down to the way I connected the wires or if the connection set-up itself is dodgy because I’m trying to establish if my housing association will class it as good reason to come out on the grounds that the connection box set-up itself is wrong or something else is wrong. If it is down to my wiring then it is my responsibility and not my housing associations, which means I have not good enough reason to get them to supply an electrician – I must get one myself or be charged their prices.

Says she who’s starting to look like the chips from the local chippy.

 

[IJWS15]

I may be missing something here but am sure the pros will comment . .

Don't cooker outlets (second photo) for free standing cookers have two sets of terminals - one for the incoming wire and one for the outgoing one? A while since I wired a free standing cooker so my memory may be failing!

The last one I wired a cooker to had a back plate with the terminals on it and a separate cover. Are you sure yours doesn't come apart in this way - from the pictures it looks as if it is a PITA to connect, especially with 6mm.

May be worth looking at changing it for a new one.