Wireless Control. CM927 Shall I?

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I’ve been looking at the threads and before deciding on purchasing what appears to be the commendable CM927 wireless receiver and thermostat. I have a few questions of my own.

I did some various tests recently and have found to my surprise no change in the gas units being used when changing the bolier thermostat from level 3 to 2 in both cases the heating was on continuious and the water on timer. Therefore I’m hoping the thermostat will indeed help reduce costs further.

We currently do not have a room thermostat and therefore are looking to buy a wireless version to reduce our fuel costs and improve comfort levels even further. A wired version would cause issues with unsightly cables and create décor issues.

Recently we upgraded all our room TRV’s and the controlled heat output is so much better than was previously as it got too hot and stayed hot resulting in manual intervention. The only TRV with a mind of its own is in the living room and that’s due to the front door which results in a whoosh of cold air. So the thermostat in this room would be ideal.

At the moment we have a simple timed setup and the unit works well but on cold days we want it to kick start itself and the thermostat would be the perfect fit to do that.

Can the CM927 therefore control the water and heating independently. I.e. does the heating (rads) need to be on for the water to heat up?

If the thermostat on the cylinder is set to 60 and the temperature gets lower can it automatically call the boiler to heat the cylinder or does it have to wait for the timed program settings.

Do I need the top of the range wireless receiver? Not sure on the options but there seems to be plenty i.e. tpi etc. how would any of those options interact with my old Potterton.

Can I still use the wired controller that’s on the wall upstairs as well as the wireless programmer? This would save having to come down as it would be positioned in the living room.

Not sure I’d want to but can you add further furture wireless stats?

That’s all I can remember for now, dead tired today :(

Potterton Kingfisher 2 RS100 Bolier
Open Vented Cylinder (Thermostat) with Imersion Heater (Airing Cupboard)
S PLAN
2x Honeywell 2 Port Valves
Honeywell ST6300A Programmer
Fernox TF1
Grundfos Alpha Pump
Lockshield Valves Honeywell VT117E/VT200 & Draytons
 
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You'll need to use the stat in addition to the programmer as their is no facility for controlling the hot water. The programmer will need to be left on heating constant. The radiator in the room with the stat should ideally not have a TRV but if there is one fitted turn it to maximum.

I notice you don't mention a bypass, on an S plan with all TRVs you need a bypass fitted, preferably an auto one.

On your system as it stands you can only use one thermostat. If you wanted to add further stats you need to split the heating into further zones with a 2 port for each zone.
 

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