Viper GLX - first to alarm option
- Thread starter Pithead
- Start date
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Its to do with when your having more than one viper on the same zone. It requires at least 7 cores. Two for power, alarm cct, and tamper cct, then you have a switch wire.
Say there are 4 vipers on one particular zone, the first viper that activated will flash, subsequent vipers will be constantly illuminated if they were activated. When the system is reset, the vipers are returned to the "normal" state, i.e, not illuminated.
Are you installing one new to a system or are you replacing an old one? If it is the latter, you may have un-powered ones, in which case wires will need checking to see what does which. If you are installing a new one, best off wiring it to its own zone.
As for testing, it needs to be calibrated properly. You can buy equipment that will do this, but is rather expensive.
There is an ongoing debate about these, some installers like them, some don't. For example, it may stop someone breaking in, because the alarm is sounding but then the alarm is sounding for no real reason, as nobody has actually broken in. When the user returns, they will probably interpret it as a false alarm, unless there is smashed windows, broken glass etc. Just my 2 cents.
Hope this information helps, come back if you need any more info!
Say there are 4 vipers on one particular zone, the first viper that activated will flash, subsequent vipers will be constantly illuminated if they were activated. When the system is reset, the vipers are returned to the "normal" state, i.e, not illuminated.
Are you installing one new to a system or are you replacing an old one? If it is the latter, you may have un-powered ones, in which case wires will need checking to see what does which. If you are installing a new one, best off wiring it to its own zone.
As for testing, it needs to be calibrated properly. You can buy equipment that will do this, but is rather expensive.
There is an ongoing debate about these, some installers like them, some don't. For example, it may stop someone breaking in, because the alarm is sounding but then the alarm is sounding for no real reason, as nobody has actually broken in. When the user returns, they will probably interpret it as a false alarm, unless there is smashed windows, broken glass etc. Just my 2 cents.
Hope this information helps, come back if you need any more info!
Cheers for the explanation Josh.
It's going on the front door (or inside door, not sure yet but probably front) as part of a new system I'm installing at the moment. It will be on it's own zone.
We need our hall PIR switched off when the alarm is part set at night so the front door needs to be covered during this period (we had someone crowbar open the front door and take the car keys at about 5am a few months ago, I thought it was the neighbours closing a door loudly
My Dad hadn't bothered fully locking the front door or locking and chaining the inside door so there was only the lock by the handle of the front door stopping them). I am thinking of turning off the shock sensor when the alarm is full set so as not to get any false alarms while we're out.
Got a couple more questions for you mate - I only have 6 core cable at the moment. Will a single Viper need a switch wire? And what does the switch wire do? I've ordered the version that also has magnetic door/window contacts so will be using those as well.
I was thinking of calibrating it by gently thumping the door frame, lol. Is this a ridiculous plan?
Thanks again for your help mate.
It's going on the front door (or inside door, not sure yet but probably front) as part of a new system I'm installing at the moment. It will be on it's own zone.
We need our hall PIR switched off when the alarm is part set at night so the front door needs to be covered during this period (we had someone crowbar open the front door and take the car keys at about 5am a few months ago, I thought it was the neighbours closing a door loudly
My Dad hadn't bothered fully locking the front door or locking and chaining the inside door so there was only the lock by the handle of the front door stopping them). I am thinking of turning off the shock sensor when the alarm is full set so as not to get any false alarms while we're out.Got a couple more questions for you mate - I only have 6 core cable at the moment. Will a single Viper need a switch wire? And what does the switch wire do? I've ordered the version that also has magnetic door/window contacts so will be using those as well.
I was thinking of calibrating it by gently thumping the door frame, lol. Is this a ridiculous plan?
Thanks again for your help mate.
Cheers for the explanation Josh.
It's going on the front door (or inside door, not sure yet but probably front) as part of a new system I'm installing at the moment. It will be on it's own zone.
We need our hall PIR switched off when the alarm is part set at night so the front door needs to be covered during this period (we had someone crowbar open the front door and take the car keys at about 5am a few months ago, I thought it was the neighbours closing a door loudly
Got a couple more questions for you mate - I only have 6 core cable at the moment. Will a single Viper need a switch wire? And what does the switch wire do? I've ordered the version that also has magnetic door/window contacts so will be using those as well.
I was thinking of calibrating it by gently thumping the door frame, lol. Is this a ridiculous plan?
Thanks again for your help mate.
This is why all entry/exit doors should be fitted with a contact, as if it was in night set it would usually cause an instant alarm condition.
Why do you need the hall pir off at night ? ( is your hall pir on Zone 1 ? )
I think the switch wire is for the contact side of the detector, so you can set up two zones on the panel, 1 for shock & 1 for the contact, or you can just set them both on the same zone, However not sure on this as i have never used ones with contacts. 6 core will be ok though.
Banging on the door when setting up the detector is ok, but it can take a while to get it just right, also post things through the letterbox and knock on the door. As you don't want it to trigger when the postman comes
But if your turning the shock off during the day you should be ok. If you are going to wire on to 2 zones which is advisable as you can then leave the contact on during the day, Then set this as your entry/exit zone.You can then make your PIR in the hall an instant alarm zone on full set, But program the zone as inhibit on entry. & then as an entry & exit zone on night set.
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A
Alarm
Forget the switch wore as it is on its own.
Many including myself do not like shocks on front doors for the reasons stated. Post, knocks and believe it or not heavy traffic.
Setting it up by tapping the door is all fair and well, but you should use the tool made for it ( ideal world). Remember if you do fit it to fit on the lock side of the door.
You have a door contact, if not put that on and if ( I think this has been said) use the 6 core for a shock and a contact, I know you will not have tampers unless the panel supports EOL, if you have to ask it probably does not.
The contact is the best method if one is not fitted.
PS to Doc, you can run a bunch of shocks on 4 core with first to alarm, 7 core is not necessarily if you know the 5 wire method. Just takes a little knowledge.
And the shocks would be grouped off into their own conformed group to avoid a confirmed signal.
Not the best method for domestic but used a lot in bonded warehouses.
Many including myself do not like shocks on front doors for the reasons stated. Post, knocks and believe it or not heavy traffic.
Setting it up by tapping the door is all fair and well, but you should use the tool made for it ( ideal world). Remember if you do fit it to fit on the lock side of the door.
You have a door contact, if not put that on and if ( I think this has been said) use the 6 core for a shock and a contact, I know you will not have tampers unless the panel supports EOL, if you have to ask it probably does not.
The contact is the best method if one is not fitted.
PS to Doc, you can run a bunch of shocks on 4 core with first to alarm, 7 core is not necessarily if you know the 5 wire method. Just takes a little knowledge.
And the shocks would be grouped off into their own conformed group to avoid a confirmed signal.
Not the best method for domestic but used a lot in bonded warehouses.
Thanks for replies gents.
Have fitted the Viper and calibrated it to my liking (touch wood).
I broke the damn reed switch when pulling the circuit board out but luckily I managed to solder another one on from a spare door contact
I have another question which I'll post in another thread so as not to hijack this one.
Thank again, and Merry Christmas!
Have fitted the Viper and calibrated it to my liking (touch wood).
I broke the damn reed switch when pulling the circuit board out but luckily I managed to solder another one on from a spare door contact
I have another question which I'll post in another thread so as not to hijack this one.
Thank again, and Merry Christmas!
PS to Doc, you can run a bunch of shocks on 4 core with first to alarm, 7 core is not necessarily if you know the 5 wire method. Just takes a little knowledge
Hi Alarm, How do you connect Vipers with 4 core cable? please see my diagram to make things easier of what I have done
Thanks
Hi Alarm, How do you connect Vipers with 4 core cable? please see my diagram to make things easier of what I have done
Thanks
A
Alarm
Sorry was not too clear there, 4 core as you have is fine but you need the 5th for the latching.
So i meant 5 core in total, not the 7 as indicated by another.
But yours would work for a bay window if you just want indication of that bay only, not individuals.
So i meant 5 core in total, not the 7 as indicated by another.
But yours would work for a bay window if you just want indication of that bay only, not individuals.
Thanks for your response
Am i correct in saying this wiring is fine, I have no choice really due to existing wiring constraints and plaster.
The problem i have with the shocks is that on the keypad when arming it mentions the "zone is open" but it arms fully, when i bang it twice it does set the alarm off however...
Am i correct in saying this wiring is fine, I have no choice really due to existing wiring constraints and plaster.
The problem i have with the shocks is that on the keypad when arming it mentions the "zone is open" but it arms fully, when i bang it twice it does set the alarm off however...
A
Alarm
That is because you have the OP3 as Det Rst. It drops power as it is setting, hence the open zone as it sets.
Make the detectors reset on their own not latching ( move the jumper) and put the +ve into a standard + output.
What panel is it, you can on some adjust the "settling" time.
But it should not make any difference to the system either way.
Make the detectors reset on their own not latching ( move the jumper) and put the +ve into a standard + output.
What panel is it, you can on some adjust the "settling" time.
But it should not make any difference to the system either way.
Its a Scantronic 9751, are you able to see the image uploaded?
I was going by what the Scan manual stated which was to put the -ve to OP3 and set it to Shock reset, the +ve is wired in a standard +ve at the panel however.
I was going by what the Scan manual stated which was to put the -ve to OP3 and set it to Shock reset, the +ve is wired in a standard +ve at the panel however.
A
Alarm
Sorry didnt have my glasses on
Neg it is.
It wont bother the system, the thing will still set and go into alarm.
Neg it is.
It wont bother the system, the thing will still set and go into alarm.
A
Alarm
Posted 2 mins ago.
Think the other site is going to tell you any different?
I`ll consider this closed as there is nothing more to add.
I wanted to get a different opinion on the matter as my local alarm guy is saying something different but now that i have it confirmed twice by yourself and the other board its good enough for me. Thank you for your advice once again!
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