Cooker Cable 45 amp

[TT125]

Hello
We are moving our Cooker around 1 meter from its current position.
We need to extend the cable and then plaster over the top so where we have extended cannot be seen ( plaster then tile over ) Could some one tell us how we can achieve this ... Can we do this ? Junction box ? That we can plaster over that meets the requirements
Many thanks

 

[bernardgreen]

You cannot plaster over a junction box.

Well you can but when the joint fails the heat generated in the failing joint will seriously damage the appearance of the wall.

Buried cables must be in "safe zones" which are identified by visible electrical items such as sockets, switches etc

Photos of what you intend to do will make it easier to offer help

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

We are moving our Cooker around 1 meter from its current position.
We need to extend the cable and then plaster over the top so where we have extended cannot be seen ( plaster then tile over ) Could some one tell us how we can achieve this ... Can we do this ? Junction box ? That we can plaster over that meets the requirements
Many thanks

Newly buried cable will require to installed in the permitted safe zones, so cannot just be routed anywhere, unless it is buried at a depth greater than 50mm or is mechanically protected. Generally due to building regulations within "Part A" This depths of chase is difficult to conform to. Mechanical protection would require either a specialised cable or a metal shield at approx 2mm-3mm thick, this would not be the standard capping.
Also consideration to buried cable and RCD protection will need to be applied.
With regards to buried joints, in large this is not acceptable unless the joint is made by methods considered MF (maintenance free). As the joint is buried the ashely/hager type junction boxes would not be acceptable and possibly the best option would be to completely remove the cable and fit one at full length. There are crimping and soldering techniques that can be used, but for the expense of specialised tools and materials, I would forget about that.

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 16 Oct 2011
• 20

 

[TT125]

You cannot plaster over a junction box.

Well you can but when the joint fails the heat generated in the failing joint will seriously damage the appearance of the wall.

Buried cables must be in "safe zones" which are identified by visible electrical items such as sockets, switches etc

Photos of what you intend to do will make it easier to offer help

 

[bernardgreen]

The image in your album

//www.diynot.com/network/TT125/albums/20930/78162

shows a chase cut diagonally from the switch. That is not permitted.

Fit a cooker connection point behind the cooker. Chase vertically up from that until it is level horizontally with the switch. Then chase horizontally to the switch. The chases are then in safe zones and compliant with regulations.

 

[TT125]

The image in your album

//www.diynot.com/network/TT125/albums/20930/78162

shows a chase cut from the switch. That is not permitted.

Fit a cooker connection point behind the cooker. Chase vertically up from that until it is level horizontally with the switch. Then chase horizontally to the switch. The chases are then in safe zones and compliant with regulations.

Thankyou for your reply.
Yes diagonally cut chase wires removed !

Where the old cooker switch is how do I cover that up as I will need to join ? .....as I want a clear run no switch /covers just plain tiled wall

Regards

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Where the old cooker switch is how do I cover that up as I will need to join ? .....as I want a clear run no switch /covers just plain tiled wall

Your photo shows a cooker control switch, I assume this is to be removed, are you then reinstalling a cooker control switch or and outlet plate for the cooking appliance?
As I have suggested I would prefer to have no joints and new length of cable, I know this is not always a practical solution, but you cannot joint the cable using a non maintenance free method.
The requirements in BS7671 area as follows:

Every connection shall be accessible for inspection, testing and maintenance except for the following:
(i) A joint designed to be buried in the ground
(ii) A compound-filled or encapsulated joint
(iii) A connection between a cold tail and the heating element as in ceiling heating, floor heating or a trace heating system
(iv) A joint made by welding, soldering, brazing or appropriate compression tool
(v) Joints or connections made in equipment by the manufacturer of the product and not intended to be inspected or maintained
(vi) Equipment complying with BS 5733

As the joint is to be buried rather than hidden/inaccessible, then the methods of jointing I would be considering would be encapsulated, soldered or compressed.
This may require special tools and heat shrinking the sheath of the cable.

If it was possible to simply replace the existing cooker control switch with a blank plate and leave accessible then jointing could be done by standard cable connections.

 

[bernardgreen]

With care you might be able to achieve a removable tile covering a metal back box with the joint in it.

A tile with magnets glued to its rear where the magnets match and attract to the metal back box might work.. That tile would have to be placed first and then the tiler works out from there.

It could then be removed using a suction cup

 

[bernardgreen]

Where are you going to fit the cooker isolation switch ?

Consider the effect of a faulty thermostat where the control on the cooker no longer turns the element off. Uncontrolled heat. In this case you will need to be able to turn off the power to the cooker. How will you do that if there is no accessible isolation switch ?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Could the joint be made accessible from the reverse side of wall?