Cooker & Induction Hob Isolation Switches

[BHI]

Had a good search through the forums, but our problem comes from the fact that we haven't bought the appliances yet - however we still want to keep everything future-proof before we re-tile the kitchen, etc.

So...

Should we ever fit an induction hob, understand that these can draw high currents (up to 47A?).

Also, an under-counter double oven will need its own separate isolator too...

So is it literally a case of installing two large red CCUs next to each other to supply each appliance? 10mm radial for the hob and 6mm radial for the double oven seems a lot of spare ways on the consumer unit?

Guess due to isolation issues that no-one sells a double-gang version with two independent switches?!

Apologies for all the questions - and thanks for all the advice so far...

 

[AndrewDavie]

Why do you need separate isolators? Under what circumstances would you need to be using the hob whilst working on the oven (and v.v.)?

Or another reason? eg. my grandmother always turned all electrical devices off at the wall switch before going to bed...and unplugged everything before leaving the house.

 

[BHI]

Thanks for your reply...

Just assumed (looking through other posts) that induction hobs place a really high demand.

Do you reckon a 45A CCU on 10mm would supply both induction hob and double fan oven (and perhaps even a socket on the CCU?)

 

[AndrewDavie]

Why not just use 16mm cable instead of 10 and 6?
Then, if it turns out you need it in future, then you can upgrade the MCB.

 

[17thman]

one needs to look at the installation method of the cable before deciding. However, 10mm2 cable from cu to isolator and then onto ccu may be enough to supply the hob and oven with a short connection from ccu to a socket outlet wired from there to plug in an oven or enven hard wired direct from the ccu depending on the energy requirements and manufacturers instructions. Diversity needs to be looked into and allowed for