Induction hob and oven

[mattyvx]

I've been reading a few topics about wiring new ovens and hobs and it seems like it crops up frequently! However even after reading up i'd still like some clarity;

Currently:
Freestanding gas cooker plugged into mains

Going to seperate:

Electric Oven (1.8Kw) or 2.2Kw grill
13amp req'd protection
http://www.beko.co.uk/Item/OIF22300#features

Hob : "Total Power load" 7.2kw (4 rings 1.3 - 2.3Kw each)
32amp req'd protection
http://www.beko.co.uk/Item/HII64400AT#features

My consumer unit has a 32am breaker circuit for the cooker & in kitchen (approx 6 meters away from consumer unit) has a cooker control unit & socket which leads to a free spur. I'm unsure what size the cable is.

I'm having an electrician round to do the wiring who has suggested to wire the hob to the existing designated cooker circuit and for the oven either wire a 13a plug or wire direct into the main socket.

Does this sound a legit option to have hob on cooker circuit & oven on main socket circuit?
Is it out of scope to wire both appliances to the cooker circuit?

Manufacturer recommends hardwiring oven but i've been told it will be ok on a plug/hard wiring to main house circuit.

 

[echoes]

If you have a 32A cooker circuit, then it would be standard practice to connect both the oven and hob to this circuit.

The oven requires a minimum 13A fuse, so it's quite OK to connect the oven and hob to a dual outlet cooker connection unit, isolated by a 45A switch provided that both appliances are within 2m of each other.

Connecting the oven via a plug and socket is also OK, but I prefer hard-wiring fixed appliances.

 

[JohnW2]

The oven requires a minimum 13A fuse, so it's quite OK to connect the oven and hob to a dual outlet cooker connection unit....

You say that, and you may well be right in this instance, but there seems to be an increasing tendency for appliance manufacturers to specify the actual OPD In required (i.e. effectively specifiying the maximum, as well as minimum), because they cannot be bothered to fuse their appliance internally to protect the internal wiring and components.

If the MI say, without qualification, that an oven 'must' be protected by a 13A fuse, then one has to be conscious of the possibility that they may be relying on that to protect the internal wiring of the oven.

Kind Regards, John.

 

[ericmark]

I would agree with John that we should follow the manufactures instructions my stand alone the manufacturer stipulates a 32A supply.

The limit for connection to a ring is considered as 2kW for fixed equipment at 2.2kW I would not be worried and see no real problem connecting to a kitchen ring.

I would again point out the whole idea of induction is very quick reaction time between turning down heat and heat going down so like gas no need to remove the pan from the heat you just turn it down or off.

However with the touch control I used it required multi touches to turn off the heat so defeated the whole idea of fast reaction time as the human machine interface was so slow to use. Give me simple knobs any day.

 

[echoes]

I agree without qualification that the MI's must always be followed.
However in this instance, the MI's do not state a maximum, just a very sensible minimum, hence the specific advice in this case.

I think this idea that the internal wiring of the oven (lamps, clock PCB) needs protecting by an external fuse (whose purpose it is to protect the cable between it and the oven) may be rather a contrived reason for manufacturers specifying the exact OPD rating (usually 16A when then do, although I have seen MI's stating 16A minimum). I rather suspect that such MI's are lazily written for European markets where a 16A supply would be usual, not our 'Great' British 32 A cooker circuit.

Plenty of appliances (e.g. microwaves) have internal fuses for the internals, and rightly so.

That a 13A fuse would protect the wires to the oven lamp and the clock PCB is unlikely.

However, I would modify my original post maybe to suggest that the cooker circuit supplies the induction hob direct via a cooker outlet, next to which is a 13A unswitched FCU for the oven, for the paranoid protection against any overloading of that cable which is not subject to overload.

I have no objection to having an oven on the kitchen or general sockets circuit per se. However, if there was a fault with the OVEN requiring its immediate isolation, one does not want to get confused between two nearby switches, one of which will typically be marked 'Cooker'.
(This from first hand experience of having set an oven on fire!)

 

[JohnW2]

I agree without qualification that the MI's must always be followed. However in this instance, the MI's do not state a maximum, just a very sensible minimum, hence the specific advice in this case.

Agreed - (having now looked at the spec) in this particular case, they do specify the minimum. However, the crucial word 'minimum' is sometimes/often missing from MIs and, particularly if the word "must" appears, theoretically leaves one stuck with 13A protection.

I think this idea that the internal wiring of the oven (lamps, clock PCB) needs protecting by an external fuse (whose purpose it is to protect the cable between it and the oven) may be rather a contrived reason for manufacturers specifying the exact OPD rating (usually 16A when then do, although I have seen MI's stating 16A minimum). I rather suspect that such MI's are lazily written for European markets where a 16A supply would be usual ...

I'm not so sure. The belief that OPDs are there only to protect cables (fixed wiring or to appliances) is the electrician's viewpoint. I see no reasons why a manufacturer cannot specify an a maximum rating for an OPD (external to the appliance) in order to protect its innards if they so choose. In particular ...

Plenty of appliances (e.g. microwaves) have internal fuses for the internals, and rightly so.

True, but plenty more don't. For example, many (possibly most, these days) small extractor fans come with MIs saying that they "must" be protected by 3A fuses, even though they are usually wired in cable of at least 1 mm². What reason could they have for specifying this requirement other than to protect the internals of the fan? After all, they are usually run off lighting circuits protected by 5/6A OPDs, so they clearly don't think that is adequate.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

I agree with echoes but overload protection may only be omitted subject to certain conditions being met.

Assuming the supplied oven cable is just adequate for 13A and It being unlikely that DIYers are able to determine these conditions, on a forum I would always advise fusing down or the use of 4mm². cable for the oven.

 

[echoes]

I agree with echoes but overload protection may only be omitted subject to certain conditions being met.

Assuming the supplied oven cable is just adequate for 13A and It being unlikely that DIYers are able to determine these conditions, on a forum I would always advise fusing down or the use of 4mm². cable for the oven.

Very sensible