Sorry guys but more ceiling rose advice required

[cluelessX2]

I have viewed the wiki advice ref changing a ceiling rose with a light that only has L/N/E connections, but still need some clarification please.

First, this is a view of my ceiling rose:

//www.diynot.com/network/cluelessX2/albums/

I understand that the central red loop wires would go into a connecting box (10amp connection box ok?) and that the black with the red sleeve(far left of pic) would be the live.
What is the best way to connect the 3 remaining black cables and the 4 x earth cables to the new light fitting, as the new fitting only has a very small connection box where only one cable would fit into each connection?

 

[riveralt]

Use a four way 20Amp terminal strip and protect with an accessible choc box.
On the supply siide put your live loop, neutral loop and earth loop in the first three terminals and the switch live in the fourth.
On the load side of the four way terminal block connect a piece of brown cable to the switch live, a blue cable to the neutral and the sleeved earth cable to the earth.
Then connect the other end of these to your small lamp terminal block.

 

[sparkwright]

Alternatively you may be able to fit a 20 amp junction box if there is a void above, and run a short bit of twin and earth between the jb and the light.

The connections at the jb would be near enough identical to that of the ceiling rose.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Use a four way 20Amp terminal strip and protect with an accessible choc box.

Or use one of these:

Or one of these if you think it would be handy to be able to remove the light completely, e.g. for decorating:

 

[ban-all-sheds]

PS

First, this is a view of my ceiling rose

Congrats on having a pretty much text-book example - cpcs all sleeved, swtiched live sleeved, apart from the cpcs hardly any exposed copper worth talking about....

 

[Taylortwocities]

That must be one of mine then!

Untitled

• cluelessX2
• 30 Jan 2012
• 1

Its almost a pity to mess around with it.

PS I usually installed them blurred as a cost option.

 

[cluelessX2]

Thank you all for your help, you have put me in the right direction.

 

[RF Lighting]

#

Those click connectors are brilliant.

They are super quick to wire. all the wiring can be installed and tested before the connection of the fittings, and I've made a little adaptor out of a spare one for plugging my MFT straight on to the last point on the circuit for Zs testing, and they are only marginally more expensive than a 20A mini joint box. If only someone would start selling ELV transformers with the plugs pre wired on


It's just a shame the one in the picture won't actually work....

 

[sparkwright]

#




It's just a shame the one in the picture won't actually work....

He's right you know.

 

[Taylortwocities]

"Serving Suggestion"

 

[IJWS15]

It's just a shame the one in the picture won't actually work....

He's right you know.

Had to think about this - presumably because he has four cables?

 

[riveralt]

It's just a shame the one in the picture won't actually work....

He's right you know.

Had to think about this - presumably because he has four cables?

I don't think so.
The question is for the blue click jb's where does the 'switch live' brown get its power from?
There is a line loop, a neutral loop and cpc loop but.......

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No - it's because it's not wired properly

Line loop is the right-most terminal - if you look you can see that the connector on the luminaire flex is offset, and doesn't have a contact which mates with that one.

As there are 3 T/E cables there should be 3 browns in that terminal - the 2 loop ones and the switch permanent line.

Mind you - mention of 4 cables does also highlight that it wouldn't be suitable for the OP, as he's got that many going to his rose and those click connectors are only designed for 3. Didn't think about that.