Casting 6" concrete coping for wall

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Argyll
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I need about 40 meters of coping for a single brick wall. Anyone done it?

I am proposing a multiple mould on a thick ply 8x4 sheet with slope created with wedge to side a batten. Lengths created with sheet steel end plate. Lining with polythene before casting. Drip (weather) edge formed by laying steel rod along mould.

Idea is to leave in mould for appropriate days/weeks, then recast another batch.
Will also need to cast 25 buttress tops 10" square.

Buying looks arround £500
Volume of concrete is arround 1/2 cubic meter

Comments from your experience appreciated
 
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You really need a vibrating table to get decent results or an equivalent home-made one??
 
you can use veggi oil for the mould,

marine ply is a must and varnish it ready for the first moulding.. once dry veggi oil the mould before casting and make sure to remove it from the mould after it has set but before it has dried ok, as it is easy whilst still fresh/damp!

then leave to dry for a day or so, on a suitable table whilst you set up the mould again and re cast some more copings

you can use car body filla to make the radius/curves in the moulds, and the base of the mould/marine ply must be well supported and also a minimum of 15mm thick to last long enough for you to get what you need from the casting over and over again

I used to work for a concrete company and cast coping and pier caps and anything else in concrete all day long, stairs and landings and so on

are you going to use white cement? or just the usual grey

a vibe table is a must.. or you can make sure the mix is strong but runny and useing an SDS drill on hammer mode on the main mould base ( i.e. the 8x4 sheet in many different ares next to the moulds and the vibbing can bring the bubbles to the top)

i see the op is a couple of weeks old..

let us know how you have got on Ton2010

i would be interested to know

J
 
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hi hotrod

shuttering ply?

is that your only input to this guys OP?
 
I am going to be doing this on a semi circle wall im about to build.
Because of the shape i was going to cast it on the wall. Fix a batten either side at the top of the wall, fix 1.5" uprights to the batten, fill with concrete and trowel flat and smooth.

Hopefully it will work, but im ok with a rough and ready finish.

Might be worth considering an approach like this as you wont have to wait for them to set and re-use molds.

Limited to flat top though.
 
hey there Graemevw

I am no brickie, but it might work doing it your way! but you will need to put joints into the top coping!

as I would guess that over time no matter how well built the wall is or the foundations for that matter! you will end up with slight or small cracks somewhere along in the coping that you will be pouring/making.
it is always better to have unsightly joints.. :confused: than unsightly cracks :rolleyes:

I would recommend that you did for every 500 - 700mm long have a joint as such. to stop unsightly cracks and if you make the joint out of something like 8 or 10mm thick plastic, and when the poured cement is firm and green you should be able to gently tap them and then slide it up and out (just make sure you oil the spacers well first) and then simply point it up when it is all totaly set/dry

once again i aint no brickie and my answers are only in replies to OP's when I feel my input is of some help. you may do what you will with the advice and I am sure there are many on here that could help you more than I

have fun and let me know how you get on :eek:)
 
hi hotrod.. the name says it all i think.

shuttering ply?

is that your only input to this guys OP?

poor sad and a pointless dont you think

No need to get all insulting because I questioned your advice. Marine ply is an unnecessary expense for formwork. Shuttering ply is much more economical. Sorry I didn't have the time to type a full step by step to the OP. Hugs and kisses and stuff xx.
 
Hi HotRod

listen i am sorry for my reply to your original posting on here. I too had had a long day and simply read your input as a negative point and it was felt as demeaning and hurtful towards my posting in trying to be of some help to someone on here for change.

please accept my apologies for being short minded and an even shorter fuse at the time.

hey it's thursday and the weekend is nearly upon us, lets hope the sun will be too eh?
I'm happy to move on and forget dude :rolleyes:

and yes you are right in what you say about the type of ply that could be used, but i always like to go the extra mile if i can hence the marine ply (as this is what we always used when i was in the concrete game) as we would have to use it over and over again for casting.
 

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