How strong is plasterboard ?

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Hi Guys
How strong is plaster board, I have had my house replastered
Well its 12mm plasterboards and then skimmed
Next job is the radiators, so could someone advise me
will the boards be strong enough to hold double radiators or should I use singles
Hope this makes sense :)
 
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Lay a piece of timber smaller than the radiator length against the wall and draw round it. Cut the piece out and insert the timber. Fasten timber in slot to wall and fix rad to the timber.
 
radiators, curtain rails, and anything else heavy, should not be supported by plaster or plasterboard. You have got to use a good long screw that goes into the brick, block or stud behind.

Joe's method spreads the load and prevents the plasterboard being crushed when you tighten the screws, I might not have done it that way but I would screw the metal angle brackets into plasplugs in the brick (I once fell on a radiator fixed to plasterboard and pulled it off the wall).

If the bricks or blocks are a bit crumbly, or you hit a mortar joint, clean out the hole and verify the plasplug fits easily, then squirt no-more-nails or similar ino the hole in the brick, and press the plug into that. Once set, the plug will not turn or come loose. Radiator brackets have lots of holes so you will be very unlucky to hit mortar joints with all of them.
 
Always before plasterboarding make sure that you know where the rads are going to be positioned and if the p/boards are going on stud work then put some noggins in level with the studs to take the rad/brackets, measure them out and draw a plan with measurements between brackets, heights and positions. Then board over them .If on a float and set wall then you will be able to plug and screw brackets on. On a d/dab wall you can cut around the brackets take out the p/board and plug and screw a noggin in the place that you have cut out and hang your brackets on them .Try to keep the noggins level with the p/board them paint them when you paint your walls.... ;)
 
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I think it's a bit late for that advice Roy.
 
Maybe joe but it may help others who are looking in ;)
 
Always before plasterboarding make sure that you know where the rads are going to be positioned and if the p/boards are going on stud work then put some noggins in level with the studs to take the rad/brackets, measure them out and draw a plan with measurements between brackets, heights and positions. Then board over them.

You're right Roy,, it's the old story,, "pre-planning". With stud walls, it takes a little more time to think ahead, but saves problems such as this, in the long run. It's also wise to put plenty of noggins in other rooms where required before boarding, especially in the bathroom/kitchen/utility room etc, or anywhere else you might hang heavy mirrors, cupboards/units/ wall mounted TV'S etc etc.
 
On a d/dab wall you can cut around the brackets take out the p/board and plug and screw a noggin in the place that you have cut out and hang your brackets on them .Try to keep the noggins level with the p/board them paint them when you paint your walls.... ;)

Or you could use these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dryline-Pla...498X/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1325844424&sr=8-4

This is a fantastic product which takes all the hassle out of dot and dab wall hanging. Every van should have a pack! But don't get them from the link I provided, they are insanely expensive. I get mine from my local plumbers merchants for less than half that price.
 
On a d/dab wall you can cut around the brackets take out the p/board and plug and screw a noggin in the place that you have cut out and hang your brackets on them .Try to keep the noggins level with the p/board them paint them when you paint your walls.... ;)

Or you could use these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dryline-Pla...498X/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1325844424&sr=8-4

This is a fantastic product which takes all the hassle out of dot and dab wall hanging. Every van should have a pack! But don't get them from the link I provided, they are insanely expensive. I get mine from my local plumbers merchants for less than half that price.


Am I right in thinking you dont need noggins with this method
The diagram on Amazon isnt very clear
 
Am I right in thinking you dont need noggins with this method
The diagram on Amazon isnt very clear

You are indeed right. But just to clarify, they are for dot and dabbed solid walls, not stud walls. You just drill an 8mm hole through the board and into the wall, screw the plug in flush with the board, and then fix to that. They are not necessary if you locate a dab of adhesive of course, you can just plug and screw that, but where there is no adhesive these are the fixings to use. They can carry very heavy fixings without damaging the board - the weight is carried by the wall. Top quality invention! I've used hundreds of them for kitchens in new builds.
 

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