Cedar Shingles And Weatheproofing A Gazebo Roof

[EViS]

We are currently building a timber gazebo in the garden. The roof pitch is 19 degrees. We would ideally like to fix battens directly to the joists and fix cedar shingles (grade 2/red label) to these without having a layer of WBP (or shiplap) so that the shingles can be seen from underneath the gazebo.

Is this likely to leak in the rain (i.e. without a membrane between the shingles and joists)? And, does anyone know of a cheap supplier of shingles?

 

[SurreyRoofingEstimator]

There aren't `cheap' suppliers of Cedar Shingles really, they're all around £35-£40 a bundle plus VAT but you could look at White Cedar Shingles instead

You don't actually need felt or sarking with shingles, at that pitch they are laid at 95mm gauge and will lap so much you end up with 4 thicknesses, if water gets through that then there is something seriously amiss

 

[EViS]

There aren't `cheap' suppliers of Cedar Shingles really, they're all around £35-£40 a bundle plus VAT but you could look at White Cedar Shingles instead

You don't actually need felt or sarking with shingles, at that pitch they are laid at 95mm gauge and will lap so much you end up with 4 thicknesses, if water gets through that then there is something seriously amiss

Thanks for the reply. Whats the difference between Red and White Cedar in terms of quality and lifespan?

Also, what would you recommend the maximum exposure can be on Grade 2/Red Label shingles?

 

[SurreyRoofingEstimator]

No real difference TBH

What do you mean by maximum exposure? if you mean guage, see reply above

 

[EViS]

Also, any idea on what the difference is between shingles and shakes? Shakes are a tad cheaper but are thicker, so whats the downside to them when compared to shingles?

 

[SurreyRoofingEstimator]

Shakes are more `rustic' and at that pitch will need an interlayer of felt between courses

 

[EViS]

Shakes are more `rustic' and at that pitch will need an interlayer of felt between courses

When you say felt between courses, do you mean between the joists and the battens? Or between the actual shakes where they overlap each other?

Are shakes made from a lower quality cedar, hence why they need felt for weatherproofing?

 

[SurreyRoofingEstimator]

The felt is between the courses, I believe it is because of the rougher surface which would allow water to percolate upwards between laps

They are of same quality as shingles as far as I'm aware

Do a search for John Brash, they have all the info on their website

 

[EViS]

I've got my shingles so will make a start on the roof this weekend. However, I am unsure about the cedar ridge tiles. Do I need to lay some form of felt strip or flashing along the ridge and then nail the cedar ridge tiles on top of this?

This is taken from the "Cedar Shake And Shingle Bureau guidelines:

All Certi-label shake/shingle hips and ridges shall be of alternate overlap type applied at the same exposure as field of roof and with nails long enough to penetrate into sheathing at least 3/4”. Install a strip of felt, eave protection material or metal over hip or ridge under the ridge or hip cap. If longer or shorter ridge cap is used, adjust exposure accordingly.

 

[noseall]

We would ideally like to fix battens directly to the joists and fix cedar shingles?

Surely a sheet of 3/4" ply needs fixing prior to any shingles?

 

[EViS]

We would ideally like to fix battens directly to the joists and fix cedar shingles?

Surely a sheet of 3/4" ply needs fixing prior to any shingles?

Nope, isn't even recommended by The Bureau. Also, I don't want to be looking up at ply on an outdoor gazebo.