Reuse Floor Tiles
- Thread starter davey76
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Thanks Richard. I think the tile adhesive is 'good quality' but we've got a big section of tiles that are loosening. Not sure if the adhesive didn't stick to the ply underneath, or didn't stick to the tiles ....
Bit of a mare really
Bit of a mare really
Suspended floors need special consideration & good trade materials, depending on what you’ve got, it may not work the second time either; if you give some more detailed information, I will be able to give some advise.
How long has it been down? Is it a replacement floor or overboard? What thickness/type of ply is it? What type/size of tiles? What type of adhesive/grout was used? Do you know the floor joist size/pitch/span?
How long has it been down? Is it a replacement floor or overboard? What thickness/type of ply is it? What type/size of tiles? What type of adhesive/grout was used? Do you know the floor joist size/pitch/span?
Sponsored Links
Thanks Richard - a few details below
- Kitchen floor
- I think porcelin tiles 36" by 18"
- Half concrete, half suspended
- suspended section is 18/22mm ply on 4" joists with sleeper wall and extra supports
- suspect the suspended floor wasn't level with the concrete so the adhesive is pretty thick on the wooden section
- suspect PVA was put down (builder denies this)
- suspect nothing special was done at the concrete/wood join, tiles just overlap the joint
- its been down for less than 6 months
- loose tiles began at the concrete/wood join and have gradually been spreading over the most heavily trafficked area
- about half the suspended area was affected
- the concrete section wasn't particularly flat and I think adhesive dot n' dab was used to level the tiles
Any advice would be very welcome
- Kitchen floor
- I think porcelin tiles 36" by 18"
- Half concrete, half suspended
- suspended section is 18/22mm ply on 4" joists with sleeper wall and extra supports
- suspect the suspended floor wasn't level with the concrete so the adhesive is pretty thick on the wooden section
- suspect PVA was put down (builder denies this)
- suspect nothing special was done at the concrete/wood join, tiles just overlap the joint
- its been down for less than 6 months
- loose tiles began at the concrete/wood join and have gradually been spreading over the most heavily trafficked area
- about half the suspended area was affected
- the concrete section wasn't particularly flat and I think adhesive dot n' dab was used to level the tiles
Any advice would be very welcome
Sorry for delay been having PC problems. You have two different floor substrates & to tile over continuously you need to install either an uncoupling membrane under the tiles or for an expansion joint; if not it will always crack where the two meet due to differential expansion between the two materials.
A suspended timber floor must be rigid with no discernable flex & 4” joist are small, what thickness are they? What the distance they span between the sleeper wall & any other supports? What pitch are they?
For a heavy use/load area such as a kitchen I would normally recommend 25mm WBP; you may get away with 22mm but 18mm isn’t up to it.
If the concrete wasn’t flat, it should have been leveled with an SLC, dot & dab is a totally useless bodge & the tiles will in many cases break under load or even walking over them.
They are also rather large tiles, it’s important to know what type they are & what make/type adhesive was used?
PVA should never be used as a tile primer, it’s completely unsuitable. Six months is no time at all & you have several potential problem areas to contend with. It sounds like your builder has made several mistakes which, unfortunately, may be irrecoverable without taking the lot up & starting again.
A suspended timber floor must be rigid with no discernable flex & 4” joist are small, what thickness are they? What the distance they span between the sleeper wall & any other supports? What pitch are they?
For a heavy use/load area such as a kitchen I would normally recommend 25mm WBP; you may get away with 22mm but 18mm isn’t up to it.
If the concrete wasn’t flat, it should have been leveled with an SLC, dot & dab is a totally useless bodge & the tiles will in many cases break under load or even walking over them.
They are also rather large tiles, it’s important to know what type they are & what make/type adhesive was used?
PVA should never be used as a tile primer, it’s completely unsuitable. Six months is no time at all & you have several potential problem areas to contend with. It sounds like your builder has made several mistakes which, unfortunately, may be irrecoverable without taking the lot up & starting again.
Thanks for the reply Richard. It confirms what I thought . 4x2 joists, 7 foot span approx (but they added some supports somewhere)
He is coming back to lift the tiles off the wooden section , we're going to fill it with concrete (overlapping the existing slab) and then retile
He is proposing to clean off the existing tiles and relay them - is that feasible do you think ? I had another tiler give his opinion which was that it wasn't economically viable to clean them off and could give problems with laying and future lifting
Sorry I don't know what kind of adhesive but it was powder they mixed up
Thanks for your help - its much appreciated
He is coming back to lift the tiles off the wooden section , we're going to fill it with concrete (overlapping the existing slab) and then retile
He is proposing to clean off the existing tiles and relay them - is that feasible do you think ? I had another tiler give his opinion which was that it wasn't economically viable to clean them off and could give problems with laying and future lifting
Sorry I don't know what kind of adhesive but it was powder they mixed up
Thanks for your help - its much appreciated
Academic if your builder is filling in but maximum span of a 97 x 47 joist @ 400 spacing is 1.93m (or 6ft 4 inches) so he’s a bit light there; maximum span decreases if the pitch is 450 or 600, significantly in the case of the latter. Assuming there isn’t one already; make sure he incorporates a DPC.
That’s probably the best course of action BUT; the floor screed will still be made up of two distinctly different areas which may still expand & contract at different rates (due to their composition) & move independently of each other, especially if it’s an extension to the original property. Unless the tiles are also removed from the existing slab & an uncoupling membrane introduced across the whole floor, it may still crack where the two meet. http://www.thetilesource.co.uk/category/decoupling-systems.html?gclid=CNH8kdee8q0CFVRItAodIHilqw
Only other way of guaranteeing it won’t crack would be to introduce an expansion joint. http://www.wallsandfloors.co.uk/range/Aluminium-Heavy-Duty-Movement-Joints/
What size & shape is this tiled area?
As I said, how easy they come up, depends on the quality of adhesive & how well they were laid. If they come up very easily it will be a bonus for your builder but would indicate to me the job was initially poor quality .
As long as they clean off OK & remain free from damage, chips or stains there is no reason why they can’t be re-laid. Weather or not it’s economically viable to spend the time cleaning them off is a decision for whoever is doing it. If you have to pay someone or are loosing time/money on other work then probably not but if your builder wants to spend the time doing it then it’s his time & not getting paid for it may not be a problem for him He may be taking the view it’s a cheaper option for him than to skip the lot & have to replace them all; his choice really!
Not all tiling products are equal; there are good quality trade products & then there is the rest! You should ask him which brand & what type of products were/are to be used, quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base is essential, especially on suspended floors; the cheap own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.
It would be advisable to read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts as this will give an idea of the problems that can arise & a basic understanding of the materials & processes involved. This should enable to take a view on what your builder is proposing but as he seems to have made mistakes already, it may also be wise to post back for further advice as you go.
4m x 4m for the failed bit is no big deal but what’s the total tiled area & what shape? Tile runs longer than around 8m or “L” shaped areas can present problems & may need expansion joints; he should also leave an expansion gap around the edge of the room under the skirting.
If he’s not taking up the rest of the tiles, you may well have further problems if he’s dot & dabbed the tiles. What is he proposing in order to provide uncoupling between the two different floor areas? If he does nothing, I’ll give you good odds it will fail again. Not removing the skirting is being optimistic; it may work but will make things difficult for him, certainly with such large tiles; I’d take it off.
Is he doing the tiling himself? Hope he’s learning from his previous mistakes!
If he’s not taking up the rest of the tiles, you may well have further problems if he’s dot & dabbed the tiles. What is he proposing in order to provide uncoupling between the two different floor areas? If he does nothing, I’ll give you good odds it will fail again. Not removing the skirting is being optimistic; it may work but will make things difficult for him, certainly with such large tiles; I’d take it off.
Is he doing the tiling himself? Hope he’s learning from his previous mistakes!
total tiled area is approx 8m by 4m
I know re. the other tiles but I doubt he will replace them as they are OK 'at the moment' - I will raise it with him but .....
He used a tiler to lay the tiles and he did the grouting
I know re. the other tiles but I doubt he will replace them as they are OK 'at the moment' - I will raise it with him but .....
He used a tiler to lay the tiles and he did the grouting
That was not a tile fixer..that fixed them tiles mate......that was a cowboy...
Dot/dabbed.....
They....builder /tiler .........have to replace/fix them ...maybe all them tiles...and at their expensive ......not yours....that's what you employed/paid for .....so they have 28days to do so.....after that get a quote and pass on to....
Dum an dumber....
Dot/dabbed.....
They....builder /tiler .........have to replace/fix them ...maybe all them tiles...and at their expensive ......not yours....that's what you employed/paid for .....so they have 28days to do so.....after that get a quote and pass on to....
Dum an dumber....
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
