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Floating solid oak floor movement


 
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gjh

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:29 pm    Post Subject:
Floating solid oak floor movement
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I bought solid oak flooring from wickes to replace the 8yr old laminate in our dining room, which although looking a little tired had actually lasted quite well.

Following the instructions on the back of the pack I laid down a DPM onto the concrete floor, followed by the wickes fibreboard under floor insulation, then floated the wooden floor on top, gluing all the joints with the wickes wood floor adhesive (leaving the 12mm expansion gap all the way around).

Unfortunately, although the finished floor looks fantastic, it moves quite noticeably up and down as you walk on it. What have I done wrong as I followed the instructions on the pack - and much more importantly is there anything I can do about it?

Admittedly I have not put the furniture back in the room (its also being replaced so is on order) so hopefully with a new dining table on top it will flex less - however is there anything else I can do other than put heavy items on top!

I have thought about drilling (shiver) through the wood floor into the concrete at the worst places and then plugging and screwing it down...refilling and varnishing above the screws when done. Is this recommended or will it just cause even more problems?
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WoodYouLike

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 10:50 am    Post Subject:
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When did you finish to job? It is normal for a wood floor to take a day or two to 'settle'.
Did you notice any dips in the concrete floor?

As for resolving - if it does not 'cure on its own' - put furniture back first to give the floor some 'body'. Never ever try to solve this by trying to screw it down! A: it will prevent the floor its normal seasonal movement and B: it could cause movement in other areas, spreading the problem.

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gjh

from United Kingdom

Joined: 19 Jun 2004
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Location: United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:24 pm    Post Subject:
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the concrete floor seemed quite level as I was laying the wood floor, as there had been no problems with the previous floor I took it for granted that there would be no issues with the floor level so didn't really check :-/....my bad I know!

I only completed the job on Friday, not been back in the room since then (long weekend at work), I'm hoping to get some furniture in there in the next few weeks so will hope that if it aint 'settled' by then that the weight of the dining furniture (hefty solid oak table & 6 chairs) will pin it down a bit more!

Will hold off putting the skirting down till then though, as if its still moving at that point I may end up with a lot of expensive firewood after replacing it!

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peterboo

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:03 am    Post Subject:
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solid wood depends on the make of wood
junkers you have to take a moisture reading of the joists and leave expansion gaps with mudflap washers every 5 boards or three boards depending on the moisture have seen it bend up like a bow when no gaps were left and also if you go to dunnikier hotel in kirkcaldy the dance floor has the gaps still in it because to two dads as there called didnt take a moisture reading before and layed it with gaps in an old dry building
seen hard wood floor swell right up and push the wall
juckers also do a overlay floor 15mm with clips pricey but the best youll get if you go to likes of b@q you will get the cheaper versions and because l never use the stuff l cant advise on it
my mate did lay a laminate floor that delaminated we keep clear of that make now the rep will come out and try to blame everything and one before accepting responsibility stand your ground if it comes to that
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