I prefered the old way, where the conduits were chased into the brick/blockwork. A lot more work to do it that way i know, but far easier to plaster over,,,,, and the plaster covered over them deeper too,,,,, imo.
Roughcaster.
It would have been fairly easy work to cut the boxes/conduit back into the soft block but I would have worried that I had taken so much material away with the chases that the already soft structure of these modern blocks could be compromised by so many chases in such a small area.
As to the depth of plaster over the present capping, I must admit that does concern me a little. With 10mm hardwall and a couple of mm top coat its going to be a little thin over the quite flexible capping.
I did originally intend the walls to be plasterboarded but the spreads that came to quote all suggested they would want to hardwall instead and I guess they should know best.
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Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:42 am Post Subject:
Well its still not plastered, the guy was coming last weekend then couldnt and was due this weekend but has a family emergency now so cant.
I have found another company to do the work starting Tuesday but the original spread was hardwalling it all, the new company says its the same price if its hardwall or plasterboarded.
Its a kitchen, which is prefereable? I am leaning towards hardwall, no cavities for kitchen cabinets to attach through...
the new company says its the same price if its hardwall or plasterboarded.
Very surprised at that, putting on a Hardwall base is more work. How did this guys price compare with the previous guy? If it’s similar for Hardwall, I would expect a discount for D&D/skim.
Its a kitchen, which is prefereable? I am leaning towards hardwall, no cavities for kitchen cabinets to attach through...
I’d would definitely agree with you; regardless of what room it is, I'd go for a "proper" plaster job every time . Be carefull, have you had any recomendations/can you see any of their work.
Joined: 30 Jul 2008 Posts: 209 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 12:11 pm Post Subject:
This company was £100 more than the guy that was going to do the job, but I managed to get them to drop the price by £70 as I was aware that they dont have full order books atm. Its quiet for most trades around here atm.
I have not seen their work, though they are an approved council contractor and been working locally since 1974, have to take a risk with someone.
£600 gets me a plasterboarded and finished ceiling 2.8 x 3.6mtr, plus 1 wall (in pic) 3.6 x 2.4mtr and all the stubby walls where the windows were removed to floor level and a wall with a window in that also needs plastering.
A fair amount of fiddly corner work in there.
Beggers cant be choosers, I have lost 2 weeks due to the other guy not being able to get here, the tiler is due the day after the plasterers finish and I need to allow time for the plaster to dry before painting.
The plan was to install the kitchen 14th Dec onwards (delivery day) but I think with plumbing and gas work yet to plan in I may be fitting on Xmas day!
Cold turkey again
the tiler is due the day after the plasterers finish and I need to allow time for the plaster to dry before painting.
Oh dear I would definitely not advise that, you need to let it dry out thoroughly before tilling/painting. Plasterboard & a skim will need 10 -14 days & if you go Hardwall base & skim up to 4 weeks. Even though it may look dry, the moisture content will still be relatively high & if you tile/paint in that condition, you will trap the residual moisture in there & it could all end in tears.
Sorry Richard, I knew what I meant...Floor tiles to lay not wall
Dont want floor tiles down before walls are done.
Oh I see; my brain was obviously fixed in wall mode didn’t want you making any potentially disastrous mistakes.
That’s a pretty good price for the job, hope it works out OK for you.
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Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:40 pm Post Subject:
Plasterers arrived today, boarded ceiling, hardwalled all the walls, plasterboarded the window reveals and plastered them.
When they left there was 1 window wall still to be multied and 2 stubs where the window once was (now an opening to a room) to finish.
Firstly should the plaster have been cut back to clean lines around the electrical boxes before it set hard or is it ok to do that later, tomorrow?
The ceiling has several lighting points with cable drops, these surely should have been finished off already to a better finish than this? I have a 6ft fluorescent fitting going over these 2 cables, looks to me like its going to leave a nasty gap between fitting and ceiling.
I shouldnt be able to see scrim tape showing through the plaster should I.
Finally the window sill is finished but as you can see the bead and the plaster run downhill some 5mm or more over 1mtr.
I have a 3mtr straight edge that I will put on the wall tomorrow, but I think I already know what the result will be.
I did tell them I was fitting a kitchen and wanted the worktop to fit the wall, not touch here and there. They asked if I was tiling the walls, I wasnt sure why they asked at the time but maybe it was so my tiles can hide the wobbly plaster.
Firstly should the plaster have been cut back to clean lines around the electrical boxes before it set hard or is it ok to do that later, tomorrow?
It’s easier to trim back immediately after it’s gone off & I do it automatically as part of the cleaning up operation; takes seconds. It’s more likely to chip back from the edge once fully set but if you give it a sharp tap with a scraper it should break off OK. I assume those cables aren’t live I always secure the cables into a terminal block & tape them into a sandwich bag to avoid any mishaps; it keeps them clean + water steel trowels & electricity don’t mix particularly well.
I did tell them I was fitting a kitchen and wanted the worktop to fit the wall, not touch here and there. They asked if I was tiling the walls, I wasnt sure why they asked at the time but maybe it was so my tiles can hide the wobbly plaster.
You will inevitably get small discrepancies, especially on an old wall but it shouldn’t be obviously noticeable; the trick is to take extra care at worktop level. It is usual to tile down over the workshop & this will hide minor discrepancies but the wall must be flat to give a good tile base or it makes the tillers job harder & may even be noticeable; large tiles are the worse & you will need as flat a wall base as possible.
It doesn’t sound too good from what you’ve said but it’s difficult to be critical of others work without actually seeing the job overall; what’s the rest of it like? More pictures might help? If not satisfied, you must give them the opportunity to rectify the problems BEFORE you pay them & don’t pay until you are satisfied.
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:20 am Post Subject:
Thanks for the reply Richard.
The imo best, most helpful of the guys that were here yesterday turned up today to finish the job on his own.
I showed him all my concerns and he is busy rectifying others work.
None of the cables were live btw
He's going to cut back around all the boxes and make good if need be.
He's put a 2nd bead along the window sill edge and replastered it, he recons it was up to 15mm out.
He says he will sandpaper the ceiling high parts where the fitting will sit.
Looking like with this guy working on his own I will get a satisfactory conclusion to the job.
I had no intention of paying until its right
I will get some more pics up once he's sorted it and gone.
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Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:27 pm Post Subject:
Here is the finished room, I think its ok now. He addressed all the problems I highlighted, so as long as I didnt miss anything I am good to go. Floor tiler in tomorrow then I need to wait before painting.
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. Be carefull, have you had any recomendations/can you see any of their work. 
didn’t want you making any potentially disastrous mistakes. 
I always secure the cables into a terminal block & tape them into a sandwich bag to avoid any mishaps; it keeps them clean + water steel trowels & electricity don’t mix particularly well. 
