Boilers and their oomph

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Greetings all, using the easy to complete form, please can you help me with the following....

1) Boiler make / model (gas or oil) Gas Potterton Netaheat profile 60e

2) What is / is not happening Underfloor heating in new conservatory....isn't!

3) Has ANYTHING else been done / changed recently One room annexe added and conservatory added

4) When did it (problem) start Winter, work completed in summer, heating not required therefore problem not realised.

5) When does it happen? eg, heating coming on or going off Whenever heating is on

6) Anything else you feel may be of relevance I have balanced to the best of my ability but realise I really need thermometers. Builder admits that he may of put 10mm too much depth of scree. Is now trying to shift blame to boiler not having enough oomph. What confuses is the underfloor heating in the annexe is fine as is the radiator that has been added. House is roughly 10mx10m, 3 beds, 2 bathrooms upstairs, 4 rooms downstairs plus conservatory 4x5m and annexe 4x7m.

I am faced with three options

1. Put an electric heater in the conservatory
2. Fit another radiator and close off the UFH
3. Tear up the floor and have the UFH raised by 10mm


My fear is that I replace the boiler and maybe find that I am still faced with the above three options! Any help/advice appreciated.

SL
 
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dont really understand you explanation .is it that the heating in conservertory is not working at all?. if not ,do the uf pipes warm up .if not is the actuator opening the supply to it .why not ask installer to check it out
 
What make of underfloor heating is it?

Has it been plumbed off a new zone valve?

I would imagine for the size of the new conservatory and annex you will need to run the underfloor system 24Hrs a day with its own programable thermostat.

A picture of the UFH manifold, mixer valve and pump would be useful.
 
You need to take this up with the installer of the underfloor heating. He has an obligation to deliver the goods, which he has apparently failed to do. I'm surprised that the system wasn't tested after installation - sounds like it wasn't a professional job, which may explain your problem.
 
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That's what happens when you get the double glazing industry to fit do all your stuff, jack of all trades master of non.

I know a bloke in this area that does exactly what you describe sells a conservatory and then sends his cowboys to do all the work and they haven't a piece of paper between them. This bloke is stinking rich as he makes as much as they do per install for just arranging all the unqualified workers.

We're in the wrong game.
 
I don't know what the trouble is... but I'm sure it isn't an extra 10mm of screed (you'd feel the heat through that). And it isn't an underpowered boiler either (that might just cause the whole house to be a bit cool).I don't understand underfloor wet heating... I believe they mix flow and return to stop the pipes getting too hot; and there's a thermostat and electric controls...

I'd suspect something wrong with the installation.

Who knows, there might even be a valve turned off :LOL:

I bet a skilled heating person would track it down.
 
Thank you all for your input, I now have food for thought......in answer to some of your questions,

JohnD There is no thermostat or dedicated electric controls, it only works when the main system is on.

Gasguru I don't know the make and I don't know if it has a manifold, I certainly haven't seen one, I believe the feed was taken from an existing radiator in the living room. There is no mixer valve as I know and the pump is the main central heating pump, a Grundfos UPS15-60.

gordongas The floor heats up in two areas about the size of 2x40cm tiles. The heat is only just discernable and is only there if I turn off all my other radiators.

Installer talks for Britain but actually says nothing. I am writing to you chaps so that next time I speak to him, I can do so with a bit of knowledge behind me. Thank you for your help.
 
The problem as I read it is, you are trying to run the UF as a radiator.

No can do, as it could take several days for the floor to heat up, then it needs to be on to control the temperature.

UF should be a completely seperate circuit
 
Is it a bad area where you live, are you the sort of bloke that doesn't pay?

I met an installer for Manchester who puts slye little isolation valves all over the place and only opnes them when he's been paid.
 
Again, thank you for your replies. What does confuse is the UFH in the annexe works fine. Seperate controls seems to be sensible suggestion, also occurred to me that it could be a blockage or even a kink in the line.

Paul Barker Nope, payment is not an issue, we all listen to Radio 4 and read the Telegraph here you know!

kevplumb I think I understand your answer.

doitall Thank you
 

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