Real wood underlay/fitting
- Thread starter jrh1
- Start date
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Underlayment depends if your tiled concrete is level, sound (oh, and clean - grease-free).
If all the above, use a combi-underlayment.
Where are your windows? If possible, always install 'with the light'.
If all the above, use a combi-underlayment.
Where are your windows? If possible, always install 'with the light'.
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Be careful as to the width of the solid wood you are installing on tiles, basically you are installing a floating floor, and if the boards are wider than 110mm they will be more liable to cupping than a narrower board...BE CAREFUL, keep away from the sticky backed underlay, its crap and difficult to use, i don't know any pro firms who use that type of product, it will drive you potty and you will end up slinging it out, and it isn't cheap either.
If you are going to the expense of buying a quality solid wood then get it professionally laid, don't cheap out and think it looks as easy to do as the b & q advert on the telly, it isn't.....
If you are going to the expense of buying a quality solid wood then get it professionally laid, don't cheap out and think it looks as easy to do as the b & q advert on the telly, it isn't.....
sorry geeonegee, but in our professional opinion it works the other way around. Boards smaller than 100mm should not be installed floating, but glued down completely. Cupping occurs indeed easier with solid boards wider than 160mm, hence always our recommendation to use wood-engineered boards if you like very wide boards.
As for the Elastilon type of underlayment: depends on the brand. Elastilon, the one's that invented the stuff, is a good brand. It does take some puzzling, trying and patience to work with it, but - when needed - it is a proper solution.
As for the Elastilon type of underlayment: depends on the brand. Elastilon, the one's that invented the stuff, is a good brand. It does take some puzzling, trying and patience to work with it, but - when needed - it is a proper solution.
Not a fan of Floormaster ourselves. If the underfloor, including tiles, is level you could also use a normal combi-underlayment (DPM + 3mm sound-insulation) and float the floor - glueing all T&G's
Yes, PVAC wood-glue (many brands around, we use Lecol)
Sorry dont agree with the sticky underlay. This is a good underlay and USED by many good fitters. I will agree that it is hard to use if you have not been shown how to use it, but very easy when you know how.
Why would the glue crack?
The official name of the glue - and I always seem to switch round the letters, sorry, is P.A.V.C wood -glue
"a water resistant dispersion glue"
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