DIYnot
Local | Network
   DIYnot > Forums
Local | Network
DIYnot Network Local DIYnot Network Local  
  Forum IndexForum Index     RulesRules    HelpHelp     Join FREERegister Free     BookmarksBookmarks     Watched TopicsWatched Topics     SearchSearch     LoginLogin 

Baxi Solo Airlock?

This topic originated from the How to page called Problems associated with noises from the central heating system
Click here to return to the page called Problems associated with noises from the central heating system.

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating
  View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
paulrussell

from United Kingdom

Joined: 14 Nov 2007
Posts: 2
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:03 am    Post Subject:
Baxi Solo Airlock?
Reply with quote Thanks

I recently replaced a radiator after some decorating and now my Baxi Solo 2 overheats and trips out. It was working ok for about a week but I guess an airlock is the cause. What is the best way to get rid of the air? I have bled the radiators and the pump appears to be working ok. Thanks, Paul.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators

If you don't want to see this advert, click here to login or if you are new click here to join free.
Meldrew's mate

from United Kingdom

Joined: 13 Nov 2007
Posts: 43
Location: Buckinghamshire,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:13 am    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

The short answer is bleed it from the system high points.

Concentrate on bleeding air from the area around the pump, if the pump works properly it'll push air into the rads where it will be easily bled off.

Turn the heating & hot water system ON, but the boiler OFF at its dial. You can sometimes get a pump to stop by moving the speed switch between settings, on the Grundfos 15/50 it's between speeds 2 & 3. So stop the pump, bleed air from the pump inlet, then start the pump. LISTEN for surging noises. Repeat the bleed process until the noises are much reduced - it no air comes out then you've done the job. Only then should you re-bleed the rads.

If the air persists check that the header tank is full and it isn't "pumping-over".

__________________
Save 14% on the gas bill...turn the heating off one day a week!
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
paulrussell

from United Kingdom

Joined: 14 Nov 2007
Posts: 2
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 10:36 am    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

Thanks Meldrew's Mate. A couple of questions...will the pump still work with the boiler off? I seem to remember the pump shuts off about 3 minutes after the boiler stops. Also, how do I bleed air from the pump? Please excuse my ignorance but is it the large screw on the centre of the pump?
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Meldrew's mate

from United Kingdom

Joined: 13 Nov 2007
Posts: 43
Location: Buckinghamshire,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 12:39 am    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

You can bleed some air from the pump itself, but that's a long winded way, what I meant was "bleed air from the pipework around the pump inlet", this is so the pump inlet always has some water to "push".

Where's the inlet? There's an arrow cast into the pump body pointing from the inlet port to the discharge port.

Remember, the air will always lodge in the pipework high spots, get these bled and the movement of water may push more air into that area. Bleed it until no more air comes out.

__________________
Save 14% on the gas bill...turn the heating off one day a week!
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
jeffreyw

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Mar 2008
Posts: 50
Location: United Kingdom
Thanked: 0 times

PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 9:01 pm    Post Subject:
reply
Reply with quote Thanks

drain down fill up again start from bottom rads
or back fill the system with a hose pipe pushin air out up in to the tank
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
gas4you

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 14312
Location: Norwich,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 41 times

PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:03 pm    Post Subject:
Reply with quote Thanks

Your pump won't work unless the boiler tells it to. It is controlled by the boiler pcb. That is why as you say, the pump 'over runs' when the heating turns off.

Have you got 240V at pump during heating/HW demand?

Are you sure the system has re-filled fully? Do you get water out of the upstairs rads when trying to bleed them? If not could be a cold feed blockage. See FAQs.

Have you bled the system at the bleed point next to your HW cylinder?

Try setting pump on full and have just HW on and any bypass shut. Also try the same but all rads off bar the nearest one.

__________________
Dave
DRL Gas Services
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Display posts from previous:   
  View previous topic :: View next topic  
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Similar Topics   Replies   Views   Posted 
Airlock? 4 740 Sat Oct 28, 2006 11:31 am
Low hot water pressure (airlock?) 4 480 Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:08 pm
Airlock in microbore 7 1540 Sat Nov 11, 2006 5:09 pm
airlock? 3 440 Thu Nov 23, 2006 12:54 pm
Bleeding airlock problem 2 500 Thu Oct 05, 2006 5:44 pm



DIYnot
Find an Expert | Find a Supplier | Search DIYnot.com
My DIYnot | Advertising | Newsletter
DIYnot.com | How to... | @home | Wiki | Forum
By using this site you agree to our Terms of Service / Disclaimer.
Please read our Privacy Policy.