Mount cooker outlet in cupboard?

Is it ok to exit cooker cable from wall into back of kitchen base cupboard so that the cooker switch unit is out of site? Also, the switch is the cooker unit plus socket type. I will have single-fan oven and 4 ring ceramic hob. Which do I wire into the outlet and which should I plug into the socket. Cooker cable is 4mm. Don't know ratings of cooker/hob yet.

It is the season for cooker circuit questions!

1) You must provide an accessible method of isolation in close proximity to the cooker. That’s normally achieved by placing the cooker switch above the worktop within 2m of the cooker. You can then run the cable to a cooker connection unit that’s hidden away beside the cooker. Would your proposed switch be accessible – without emptying a cupboard or dismantling the kitchen? Would it be obvious where it was located in the event of a fire??
2) How can you size the cable if you don’t know the cookers ratings? 4mm cable may be too small.
3) Don’t use the socket for either the hob or the cooker.

Before you continue find out the ratings of the appliances you are planning to buy. What’s the size of the breaker/fuse in CU and how far does the cable run to the cooker? (And of course that the cooker is on a separate circuit in the first place.).

Ok - I see the reason now for siting the switch in view and close to the cooker.

Cooker circuit was already in place using 4mm cable. I've checked manufacturers website, it would appear oven is 2.4kw and hob 6kw. I'm assuming then, that hob into cooker outlet and oven on different circuit?

At 2.4kw for the oven, that's less than a kettle or microwave I guess but left switched on for considerably longer!

How about I take a fused spur from the existing ring main to feed the oven?

I haven't purchased oven/hob yet, so if necessary I'll downgrade the appliance.

Assuming the cooker is supplied from a dedicated 4mm circuit protected by a 32A MCB/30A fuse we are allowed to apply diversity to the calculation – this allows for the fact that the cookers will not draw 100% of their current all the time.

6Kw + 2.4Kw = 8.4Kw @ 230v = 36.5A

Applying Diversity to the cookers using the formula 10A + 30% of balance we get

36.5 – 10 = 26.5
26.5 * 0.3 = 8

10 + 8 = 18A.

(If you use a cooker control with a socket you will need to allow an extra 5A for it. I know this is what you originally planned for but I would avoid the socket if possible. )

Allowing for diversity you could supply both by 4mm cable.

Therefore you could connect both appliances into the same isolator switch provided they are both within close distance of the switch. Make sure you connect them both with 4mm+ cable. You should be able to get both cables out the load side isolator terminals.

Thanks for the quick replies. I've read previous posts too and it all makes sense to me now. Circuit is indeed protected by a 32A mcb.

Fortunately, I only have space for standard 60cm cooker so I don't have the temptation to fit a huge range cooker with 4 ovens and a kabillion rings on the hob!