Re-Building Sunroom

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The next part of the refurb is this........


The Sunroom, built of hardwood about 1975. Has a 4 year old felt roof in excellent condition. Dwarf walls are all in good nick. The glazing and wood are all shot.

Side view.

Aluminium Doors

Inside

Connection to bungalow

Connection to outer plate.

Rotten sills

Rotting under doors.

Now, I would like to keep the roof and walls and replace the middle. The question is is it feasible to replace the main pillar hard wood supports with say brick piers? Obviously supporting the roof whilst this is built.

I am hoping to then re-glaze with standard single glazing in wooden frames keeping the glass area to a maximum.

As always, my budget won't stretch to a full replacement. I am expecting a serious dent paying for the doors and windows.

Would appreciate and advice or suggestions you Pro-Builders and surveyors can give.

Cheers Chaps.
 
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As much as I like brick, are you sure that you would want some [thick] brick piers?

Wouldn't it be better to keep thin frame sections and maximise the view out?
 
Stuart,

I hadn't exactly thought about the size of piers.

1. Large enough to do the job of support at the necessary spacings along the front and sides.
2. Enough to ensure that I can fit the largest sized glazing available without going 'Bespoke'.

Woody, you have an alternative in mind to brick piers?

It would still have to take standard largest window size.

If that makes sense.
 
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Why are you trying to use bog standard sized windows? I wouldn't have though that you will get any that size anyway. And purpose made needn't be expensive cf standards.
 
geta a conservatry company in.. they'll sort it for you..

Tried - I was not mug enough to sign up for the "one time special £7,500 deal". Plus the Rep reckoned they would have to call in a building firm to support the roof for their fitters.

Shy - The biggest of the frames are currently 1620mm wide. If I went box section then I suspect the glazing wouldn't be much smaller than this. I assumed, wrongly?, that glass that size would have to be made special like. ;)

I also have to figure a way of getting ride of the louvres that are there with the supporting framework.

Been trying to get a builder and a Glazier round for advice/quote. No luck as yet. They are all very busy round here as no one is moving and are all building extensions.
 
acro props to support roof, cut out windows etc..

this might be better in doors and windows BTW since it's all glass you're replacing..
 
this might be better in doors and windows BTW since it's all glass you're replacing..

You are right, but I wanted to deal with the building stuff first then I will ask those adminnies to move ot O'er.
 
Jack, me son you have a good eye. 2.5m X 6.5m. Give or take a few cms.

The windows on that link you gave - are they single or double glazed? It's not clear to me.
 
I counted the bricks... :)

since it says "28mm Pilkington K glass".. It's either very thick glass, or DG units..
 
Any comments/suggestions from the Window Pro's would be appreciated. :)
 
I cant see why the timber posts could not be replaced like for like, and then the new frames fitted.

Similar sized steel hollow sections could be used, but they may suffer condensation internally. But as you will be single glazing, then this may not matter

By the looks of things it does not seem that the frames will be standard sizes, and glass is made to measure anyway, so it will cost what it costs and there does not seem any way to incorporate standard economical pre-made frames.

For the louvres, aren't you changing the frame too? Otherwise these can come out and either an opening casement made, or just fixed glazed

Actually doing it is straightforward. The roof is propped (acro's or timber) and then the posts removed and replaced. it will probably be all dry/mechanical fixings, so as soon as the replacement posts are in the temporary supports can come out.

If you are having a couple of brick piers, then leave them a day to go off, before loading them. If hollow piers, then yo can set a fixing strap in the centre for fixing the roof down. Otherwise its angle brackets - unless a longer strap can be hidden behind the timber frame
 

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