Hi all,
For a few years the incoming water feed into our house has been MDPE to stopcock to 15mm copper. The pipe then split into 15mm copper to feed the combination boiler and all cold taps upstairs and an old lead pipe to feed the cold taps and appliances downstairs. This lead pipe had a number of old additions on it that had been capped off over the years.
We are in the process of replacing our kitchen, so over the last weekend whilst I was moving the hot and cold supplies for the appliances and taps, I took the opportunity to remove the old lead pipe.
Now the incoming water feed goes MDPE to stopcock to 15mm copper. This copper then splits upstairs to feed the combination boiler and cold taps and continues to feed the cold taps and appliances downstairs.
Unfortunately, this change has introduced water hammer. It seems that if we turn off any taps quickly, or the toilet closes it's feed quickly that the pipes emit a bang. It doesn't always seem to be the same pipe - although I could investigate further in order to try and lock it down to the particular pipe(s).
I'm guessing that this water hammer has been caused by the removal of the old lead pipe. It probably cushioned the pressure movement by a combination of its material and the fact that it had a number of capped old additions.
So, I've had a dig around, and I can see that I have a number of options:
- Track the pipes down and ensure that they are clipped in correctly. I am pretty sure that most are, although I can double check this. My concern with this would be that the hammer still occurs, just with less noise and potentially weakening the joints.
- Fit a Pressure Reducing Valve. I've read mixed comments about these and their effectiveness at solving water hammer. I believe our water pressure to be quite high so it seems the most viable solution.
- Fit a Shock Arrester. Again, I've read mixed comments about these as a long term solution. I don't want to fit something and find that it needs replacing in about 3 months time!
- Check the main stopcock for a "loose jumper". I'm not 100% sure what this means, so I don't want to waste my time on a dead end.
So DIYnot.com collective ... what would you suggest? Am I on the right lines? What avenue should I investigate further as a first course of action?
Help appreciated.
Kind Regards,
Nige.
For a few years the incoming water feed into our house has been MDPE to stopcock to 15mm copper. The pipe then split into 15mm copper to feed the combination boiler and all cold taps upstairs and an old lead pipe to feed the cold taps and appliances downstairs. This lead pipe had a number of old additions on it that had been capped off over the years.
We are in the process of replacing our kitchen, so over the last weekend whilst I was moving the hot and cold supplies for the appliances and taps, I took the opportunity to remove the old lead pipe.
Now the incoming water feed goes MDPE to stopcock to 15mm copper. This copper then splits upstairs to feed the combination boiler and cold taps and continues to feed the cold taps and appliances downstairs.
Unfortunately, this change has introduced water hammer. It seems that if we turn off any taps quickly, or the toilet closes it's feed quickly that the pipes emit a bang. It doesn't always seem to be the same pipe - although I could investigate further in order to try and lock it down to the particular pipe(s).
I'm guessing that this water hammer has been caused by the removal of the old lead pipe. It probably cushioned the pressure movement by a combination of its material and the fact that it had a number of capped old additions.
So, I've had a dig around, and I can see that I have a number of options:
- Track the pipes down and ensure that they are clipped in correctly. I am pretty sure that most are, although I can double check this. My concern with this would be that the hammer still occurs, just with less noise and potentially weakening the joints.
- Fit a Pressure Reducing Valve. I've read mixed comments about these and their effectiveness at solving water hammer. I believe our water pressure to be quite high so it seems the most viable solution.
- Fit a Shock Arrester. Again, I've read mixed comments about these as a long term solution. I don't want to fit something and find that it needs replacing in about 3 months time!
- Check the main stopcock for a "loose jumper". I'm not 100% sure what this means, so I don't want to waste my time on a dead end.
So DIYnot.com collective ... what would you suggest? Am I on the right lines? What avenue should I investigate further as a first course of action?
Help appreciated.
Kind Regards,
Nige.
. Seriously - I'm not sure I would have to check the actual figure ...
