Danfoss TP5000 Si - RF + RX1 & glowowrm 24cxi wiring

Reeves2k2 · 23 Oct 2010

right after my mate (so called apprentice sparky) blew my 230v control interface pcb by connecting the low voltage controls in effect to the mains power i have ordered a new pcb HOPEFULLY this is all the damage it did

once i receive the pcb and replace it im am looking for help wiring it up

now the boiler and thermostat are in the title how would i go about this

the terminals on the thermostat are

N L 1 2(COM) 3(ZONE 1 ON) 4 (ZONE 1 OFF)

the boiler has the 2 linked terminal on the low voltage connectors and a terminal on the mains controls on the pcb for room thermostat

it says in the thermostat manual not to connect the earth and neutral

so how would i go about wiring this i know its prob simple for you guys and am competants with it just need to make sure on the wiring b4 i do it dont want to blow the pcb again

heres from the boiler manual

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D_Hailsham · 23 Oct 2010

Reeves2k2 said:
the terminals on the thermostat are

N L 1 2(COM) 3(ZONE 1 ON) 4 (ZONE 1 OFF)

the boiler has the 2 linked terminal on the low voltage connectors and a terminal on the mains controls on the pcb for room thermostat

1. Leave the low voltage link in place
2. Connect power to RX1/L and RX1/N
3. Link RX1/L to RX1/2
4. Connect RX1/3 to boiler room stat terminal 2.

Reeves2k2 · 23 Oct 2010

Thanks very muchh I have the jist of that

Although u say leave the link in place is that correct even though the boiler instructions say to unlink?

D_Hailsham · 23 Oct 2010

Reeves2k2 said:
Although u say leave the link in place is that correct even though the boiler instructions say to unlink?

They are confusing.

I suggest you remove the link and see if the boiler works. If it doesn't, you will know that the link is required.

Reeves2k2 · 23 Oct 2010

Cheers pal I will have a go just need to find the pcb and wait for it to be delivered before I can have any heatig which is a pain unless there is a way to bypass it for a couple of days

harold5 · 23 Oct 2010

try a link between 1 + 2 on controls board. you might be lucky and only blown the low voltage side of board. be careful its 240v . if it works you wont need a new board. d hailsham is wrong ,low voltage link needs removing when fitting 240 controls or it will run 24/7.

Reeves2k2 · 23 Oct 2010

Ill give it a try how do I no which one is connection 1 and 2 to like together to try

harold5 · 23 Oct 2010

with front flipped down and looking down on it 1 is bottom,2 is middle.

Reeves2k2 · 23 Oct 2010

Thanks again sorry about all the questions

One final thing the linking you talk about
Is this done so I'm able to control the heating via the thermostat? Which if works just means the dials are dead on the interface but will work with the thermostat

harold5 · 23 Oct 2010

the link is a temporary measure to get your heating on if you havent totally fried the board.if it works then you will have to switch it on and off on the heating stat control on the front panel or clock. all you are doing is taking 240 out of 1 and putting it in 2 ,which is where you should be putting your "on" wire from the rx1 when you have wired it up properly.put the link in and see if it works, if doesnt then you know the boards buggered

Reeves2k2 · 23 Oct 2010

Well I linked the 2 and still nothing so I gather the board done for

Is it just a case of replacing it or could it have damaged something elswhere?

harold5 · 23 Oct 2010

you may have goosed the main board as well. might be worth a call to glowworm or bg for fixed price repair.

Reeves2k2 · 23 Oct 2010

I hope not as the main board is rather expensive!!!

Iv had a good look at the main board and everything looks fine no blown solder or blown resistors/fuses I'm really hoping well praying that its just the control pcb

What's the chances of the main board being shot if it looks like new? As in everything looks fine is there a way I could test it?

tamz · 24 Oct 2010

Reeves2k2 said:
I hope not as the main board is rather expensive!!! it is

Iv had a good look at the main board and everything looks fine no blown solder or blown resistors/fuses I'm really hoping well praying that its just the control pcbit won't be

What's the chances of the main board being shot if it looks like new? 100% As in everything looks fine is there a way I could test it? post it away to some place who do boards

Buy a couple of hot water bottles or use plastic juice bottles to keep yourself warm in the meantime as you still have hot water.

Could be worse it is minus 3 up here tonight.

Right then to wire it into the new board

The RX1 has volt free connections and the boiler has a place for this so use them.
Take the L & N from the boiler to the RX1 L & N
Take 2 wires from the volt free connections on the boiler (remove the link) to 2 & 3 on the RX1. Don't fit any links in the RX1.
Put the batteries in the TP5000
That is it.

Unfortunately you had to learn the hard way.

DP · 24 Oct 2010

I would remove the link and connect voltage free contacts of the reciever to this. The relay in the reciever acts as the link that you are removing in the boiler. Connect Rx1 2 and 3 to points that are linked in the boiler.

Do NOT connect mains to 2 or 3 in RX1. To recap, the link in the boiler is removed to allow Rx1 to act as the voltage free link.

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Danfoss TP5000 Si - RF + RX1 & glowowrm 24cxi wiring

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