Gas meter in detached garage, boiler in house.

samtheman1k · 4 Jan 2011

Hello all, I'm after a bit of advice on my situation. I live in a house that is about 15m back from the main road, but inbetween my house and the road is a row of garages, of which we own one. I want to get gas heating installed, and got Scotia to come and connect me to the mains. They said that they can't run through buildings, and thus would only run the gas pipe into the garage, and leave it up to me to run it from the garage to the house.

I'm getting BG to install a meter in the garage, and getting some quotes for getting a boiler installed and to run the pipe from the garage to the house (about 8m). This goes through the garden and under a path. What are the rules/regs on running a gas pipe from a garage to a house underground? e.g. pipe type, can there be joints, minimum depth etc.

I'm getting a plumber/heating technician to install obviously, but want to be clued up before they quote so know they're not telling me porkies!

Thanks in advance!

bengasman · 4 Jan 2011

In stead of trying to learn something new and outsmart a pro, you'd be better off finding yourself a good, reputable RGI, and leave it all up to him.

You could spend the rest of the year trying to find out what is what, and I could still take you for a ride if I wanted to.

samtheman1k · 4 Jan 2011

Thanks for the advice, though I'm not sure why you replied with your pointless trolling, but having seen plenty work done by cowboys who claim they are 'pros' (including RGIs), I think I'd rather be informed first. As a Chartered Engineer (IET) myself, I'm quite sure you couldn't take me for a ride.

And yes, whoever gets the job will be Gas Safe registered anyway!

Agile · 4 Jan 2011

As you clearly think that you are the bees knees and that most RGIs are cowboys out to rip you off then why dont you just look up the gas regulations yourself?

After all we are RGIs and by your one statement we are likely to be cowboys as well.

Tony

samtheman1k · 4 Jan 2011

Where did I say all RGIs were cowboys?

BlueMoonMole · 4 Jan 2011

There are several things you will have to consider;

The pipework must be buried to a minimum depth dependant on what traffic is to be expected above, usually 375-450mm.

The pipework will also need to be protected using a suitable means.

The pipework entering the property will have to be sleeved and have an ECV (Emergency Control Valve) fitted, due to the meter being such a distance away.

Bare in mind, the gas requirements will have to be calculated prior to this gas run being placed, as it will all depend on what appliances you intend on having.

The overall length of pipe, including fittings and the kW of the appliances will depend on what diameter of pipes you require.

The appliance gas inputs will have to be calculated by there diversity values, which will indicate what meter size is required.

As you can see, there can be some work required before we even bother to start digging up your path.

And for those exact reasons, some others on the forum take offence by people thinking they can 'do a better job themselves'.

Good luck with the work.

GaytonTonner · 4 Jan 2011

samtheman1k said:
Where did I say all RGIs were cowboys?

Far too many of them are cowboys. Look at the outside of buildings at flues and pressure relief pipes.....and all the poorly installed condensate pipes freezing up.

You are right in wanting to know an overview so as not to be ripped off. The pipe from the garage to the house can be in plastic yellow MDPE gas pipe. This is easily available and cheap.

For a guide:
http://www.bes.co.uk/products/043.asp

The pipe entering and leaving the house and garage must be sleeved. A stop tap at the house end. Minimum depth of around 750mm.

You can use Tracpipe which is expensive:
http://www.bes.co.uk/?ref=bes.co.uk

You can have the boiler in the garage for the best safe solution. The hot pipes must be around 750mm deep (below the frost line), and run in an insulated outer pipe, like a 110mm soil pipe. I would put foam insulation over the 110 pipe before backfilling. I would also have the two heating pipes in plastic in one length with no joints with pipe insulation over each, run in the outer pipe, filled with vermiculite. The electric connection can be direct burial cable. Put the boiler in an insulated cupboard. The condensate can be in a condensate soakaway. easy to do when the trench is open.
http://www.bes.co.uk/?ref=bes.co.uk
part No. 17497

I would go for the garage boiler installation. No noise, no space taken up and safer.

Agile · 4 Jan 2011

GaytonTonner said:
The pipe entering and leaving the house and garage must be sleeved. A stop tap at the house end. Minimum depth of around 750mm

Why do you think it needs to be so deep in this case?

PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN · 4 Jan 2011

Oh we can use stoptaps on gas now can we, dont remember that being in my
re-assesment, wonder if it will stop yea stop geddit any let by problems

Agile · 4 Jan 2011

Dr Drivel said:
Onetap said:

The Dunsley neutralizer is just a high-priced, low-loss header. A thermal store would achieve the same effect.

Click to expand...

He is better off using a thermal store in this application. Safer, easier and perfect for mixed heat sources.

Dr Drivel has never been gas registered so cannot be expected to know everything about gas regulations!

kirkgas · 4 Jan 2011

GaytonTonner said:
samtheman1k said:

Where did I say all RGIs were cowboys?

Click to expand...

Far too many of them are cowboys. Look at the outside of buildings at flues and pressure relief pipes.....and all the poorly installed condensate pipes freezing up.

You are right in wanting to know an overview so as not to be ripped off. The pipe from the garage to the house can be in plastic yellow MDPE gas pipe. This is easily available and cheap.

For a guide:
http://www.bes.co.uk/products/043.asp

The pipe entering and leaving the house and garage must be sleeved. A stop tap at the house end. Minimum depth of around 750mm.

You can use Tracpipe which is expensive:
http://www.bes.co.uk/?ref=bes.co.uk

You can have the boiler in the garage for the best safe solution. The hot pipes must be around 750mm deep (below the frost line), and run in an insulated outer pipe, like a 110mm soil pipe. I would put foam insulation over the 110 pipe before backfilling. I would also have the two heating pipes in plastic in one length with no joints with pipe insulation over each, run in the outer pipe, filled with vermiculite. The electric connection can be direct burial cable. Put the boiler in an insulated cupboard.

I would go for the garage installation if electricity is on line. No noise, no space taken up and safer.

there isnt one good piece of advice in this whole post, putting the boiler in the garage and running plumbing for 8m underground is stupid, please stick to what you know, this type of post is not helpful to the OP at all

GaytonTonner · 4 Jan 2011

kirkgas said:
there isnt one good piece of advice in this whole post, putting the boiler in the garage and running plumbing for 8m underground is stupid, please stick to what you know, this type of post is not helpful to the OP at all

It is all excellent advice. I find it amazing you do not have the intelligence to assess what was put across. I have done it, in a number of houses. Running two CH pipes underground is not a new thing. Hospitals have them to heat remote buildings. I once did it in a house I had that went 3 metres underground. No noise from any boiler, no leaks to stain the inside of the house if they occur. All servicing is in the remote garage. No space taken up in the house. Safer as well, as there was no gas inside the house as the hob was electric. Superb. Well worth it.

GaytonTonner · 4 Jan 2011

PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN said:
Oh we can use stoptaps on gas now can we, dont remember that being in my
re-assesment, wonder if it will stop yea stop geddit any let by problems

You haven't come across gas taps?

GaytonTonner · 4 Jan 2011

Agile said:
GaytonTonner said:

The pipe entering and leaving the house and garage must be sleeved. A stop tap at the house end. Minimum depth of around 750mm

Click to expand...

Why do you think it needs to be so deep in this case?

Would like it on a gantry above ground?

Mark Br · 4 Jan 2011

GaytonTonner said:
kirkgas said:

there isnt one good piece of advice in this whole post, putting the boiler in the garage and running plumbing for 8m underground is stupid, please stick to what you know, this type of post is not helpful to the OP at all

Click to expand...

It is all excellent advice. I find it amazing you do not have the intelligence to assess what was put across. I have done it, in a number of houses. Running two CH pipes underground is not a new thing. Hospitals have them to heat remote buildings. I once did it in a house I had that went 3 metres underground. No noise from any boiler, no leaks to stain the inside of the house if they occur. All servicing is in the remote garage. No space taken up in the house. Safer as well, as there was no gas inside the house as the hob was electric. Superb. Well worth it.

Oh no, Dr Drivel is back.

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Gas meter in detached garage, boiler in house.

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