Remeha Avanta 18V

Had a Remeha Avanta boiler fitted some time ago. It really never work properly and now that the weather turned really cold I know this system is not working properly.
3 different technicians from Remeha have paid a visit. each time they seem to blame something different/

The first one blamed the pump. The pump was changed by the instaler even tho the original pump was working correctly.

Second technician changed the microprocessor board.

The third technician changed the heat exchanger as suggested by installer

All three left the boiler on and all rad hot and hot water.
only touble was that when the system was switched off it never came back on. This happened everytime

I managed to get it going one by bleeding the rads.

Last time it was switched off it has never come on.
When switched on the boiler goes over a 3 min venting cycle and then goes onto stand by mode and nothing happens. there;s no heating or hot water.

The last technicia suggested the system is losing water, but there's no evidence of that anywhere.
When trying to bleed the rads little air comes out and water only trickls out.
One suggestion is that the cold water feed pipe is partially blocked as the system fills in quite slowly if drained, but even so when the system has water the boiler should function correctly.

The system was not power flushed when the boiler was installed.

The Remeha technicians seem to suggest that the boiler goes into stand by mode because there's not enough water pressure or no enough water in the system hence they siggested it could be a leak.

Is there a pressure sensor on those boilers? could it be faulty?

Has anyone got an idea what could be at fault here? I've been without heating for nearly two months now.
TIA

18V is open vent heat only, so no pressure sensor.

System should have really been flushed properly when boiler was fitted.

Have all the external controls been checked?

Is the boiler wired correctly?

I would be looking for an electrical problem from what you describe.

I will get the system power flushed as soon as I can find a reliable central heating technician.

The boiler wiring was checked the first time the Remeha technician inspected it. The pump was found not to be directly wired to the boiler. The installer corrected this.
The second Remeha technician replaced the microprocessor and reconnected all contacts. So I'm assuming wiring is correct.

The boiler must be correctly wired as all Romeha technicias managed to started it by bleeding the rads and getting water into the system. In their opinion it seems not to have enought water. One thought the system did not fill in fast enough.

The last technician bypassed all external controllers to prove there wasn't anything wrong with the boiler.
So it's not the boiler, it's not the pump, it's not the external componets wiring 'cos it's been bypassed yet the boiler won't start again if switched off.
I don't think the installer knows what's wrong with it.
What could be wrong?

firstly turn the display on in the user settings.
then check that all the user settings are as they should be for your blr.
turn on your controls so that they are calling for heat. what mode does your user control tell you that the boiler is in?
Even if it doesn't help fix it, you can really improve your chances of getting blr fixed by giving the attending engineer some solid details of what the blr is doing

rojaca said:

firstly turn the display on in the user settings.
then check that all the user settings are as they should be for your blr.
turn on your controls so that they are calling for heat. what mode does your user control tell you that the boiler is in?
Even if it doesn't help fix it, you can really improve your chances of getting blr fixed by giving the attending engineer some solid details of what the blr is doing

Click to expand...

The blr display has no errors. All settigns are as per factory setting.
There's a reset button that can be pressed to get blr to factory settings.
As described previously, once swicthed on it goes over a 3mins venting cycle as per user manual and then it displays just one dot which means stand by mode. It should really display two dots which means it is functioning correctly i.e. heating.
All external components are disconnected at the moment to try an isolate the problem.
After it's3 min venting cycle the boiler should start heating when switched on, but it jsut doesn't do that.

Does it sound totally dead or is the fan constantly running ?

Makes you wonder if the perm live is actually wired as a switched live.

Wangerman said:

Does it sound totally dead or is the fan constantly running ?

Click to expand...

You mean after its 3mins enting cycle?
yes, it all goes quiet.

michele5041 said:

Makes you wonder if the perm live is actually wired as a switched live.

Click to expand...

perm live?
Not an expert. please clarify. Thanks.

Broag said:

Wangerman said:

Does it sound totally dead or is the fan constantly running ?

Click to expand...

You mean after its 3mins enting cycle?
yes, it all goes quiet.

Click to expand...

Rules out my idea of fan pcb fairly common on Broags

Shot in the dark here


If you say the electrics are fine the pressure is fine can only really leave a gas supply issue

You really need to get it checked out by an engineer could even be a gas mag valve

If everything else is calling for heat/hot water then not much else to stop it firing up

hey you dont want to be touching that boiler are you corgi redg and fully qualified in that particular area? dont forget you could be dealing with dangerous gas and pressurised water . what you need is a fully trained corgi redg gas fitter who knows the inner workings on that model.these experts know how to take the outer casing from these boilers to to inspect the inner workings. i would leave well alone unless you are corgi redg ..... psif you are ;looking out for a decent plumber look in asda ,s on the adverts section under the section COWBOY :

benny123vanman said:

. what you need is a fully trained corgi redg gas fitter who knows the inner workings on that model :

Click to expand...

Corgi are no longer running the register for gas engineers, you should be looking for a GasSafe registered engineer
Try these http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/

As somebody has stated before this is a heat only boiler and has no pressure/flow sensors fitted.
Bleeding the radiators is not going to get the boiler to operate if it is only in standby mode (1 dot), this is a wiring problem!

You need an engineer to check if there is:
240v on X6 Permanent live
240v on X2 switched live terminal 1 (when external controls are calling for heat)

You can put a link between terminal 1 & 4 (X6) to eliminate the external controls.

Pump needs to be connected into X4
1 - Neutral
2 - Live

Check the Mode Settings you have to tell the PCB to operate - P.3 nees to be set to 1.

It would be useful if you enabled the dispaly to perm on P.6 needs changing to 1, this will indicate the true operating state of the boiler using 0-9 instead of 2 dots which will give much clearer indication as to what is happening.

Bleeding the rads is not going to have any effect on this problem as the system is Open Vented nor are there any LP swiches on the "V" series Boiler

Boilerman2 said:

Check the Mode Settings you have to tell the PCB to operate - P.3 nees to be set to 1.
:

Click to expand...

P3 needs to be set to 2 CH on and DHW off.... it should be factory set to 2