Toilet to Soil pipe problem

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Wicky

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Hi All,

Stumbled across this forum when googling my problem. Basically looking for advice on my toilet >> cast soil pipe connection on 50s council house upstairs loo.

Too my shame this was how it's been for 10 years, but some work on the bath and when accessing it in a confined space 'moved' the loo, and while it doesn't drip anymore than usual it now creaks alarmingly. So i'm looking at possibly rebasing the toilet on a wooden base and securing it properly and obviously looking at properly connecting and sealing at the same time. So should I be looking at buying the same connector and will raising the loo and inch or two cause any problems?

Cheers

bog-problem.jpg
 
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If you`re happy to have the loo a couple of inches higher on a wood plinth - then that is the answer for DIY ;) Same sort of connector too :idea:
 
That present pan connector is upside down, seriously mis-aligned and the wrong size to mate correctly with the cast iron socket, so it's not surprising that it leaks.

The pan connector, or an extension piece on the back of a connector should push right into the soil pipe behind the socket. The one that's there only appears to be lodged in the socket.

Difficult to tell exactly from your piccie, bit it looks like cutting the iron about flush with the inside of the boxing would leave the end about level with the pan outlet. Of course, much depends on what's inside the box. If it's a bend or a tee, there may not be enough 'straight' pipe for the fins on a pan connector to seal against, so back to the wooden plinth.

I would consider dismantling that box around the soil pipe, hacksawing the socket off the cast iron pipe where it is level with, or below the pan outlet, and fitting a new pan connector and extension piece.

If you choose to make a plinth, don't use chipboard. It absorbs any dampness, swells up and disintegrates like a soggy weetabix. Water resistant plywood is a better choice. No need for marine ply, unless you want to french polish it.

Although I don't like them, a flexible pan connector may help with the distance and disparity in the angles of the soil pipe and pan outlet, but remember water doesn't flow uphill, which is what the present arrangement is attempting to persuade it to do.
 
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Thank guys all good ideas and pointers. here's a pic with the soil pipe exposed. It's goes 90 degree and connects again. Would this be what I should remove and replace with plastic?

Is that a big jobbie inspection access??

bogsoil90.jpg
 
If you removed all the rest of the 'boxing' could you rotate the exsisting cast bend (with jobby inspection hatch) to a more suitable angle. Not sure what its sealed with but if it was flexible (not hard setting) it would be an easy fix.
 
Unfortunately that inspection bend is in exactly the wrong place to be helpful in replacing the end of the cast iron with plastic. I doubt there is much chance of re-orientating the existing bend if it was fitted securely enough not to leak in the first place, but all is not lost - yet.....

....If you can get access to cut the pipe anywhere 'south' of that rodding eye, you could insert a flexible pan connector into the soil pipe.

....Or if where you cut leaves a reasonably round and parallel 'tail', you could fit a 'Fernco' or similar coupling, and a plastic bend orientated so it is looking directly at the pan outlet.

The snag is finding somewhere to cut where the you will have a plain, parallel end to the cast without running up against the floor, wall or joists to stop you cutting the pipe just there.
 
Thanks TicklyT et al for the input - So what's needed is a clear length of soil pipe for an adapter to cleanly 'plug' into - how many inches? . If I could carefully drill out the cement where the angle piece fits into before heading down to the vertical pipe and remove it (obviously removing all the remnants of cement so as not to damage the adapter rubber insert) would that work?

I can see that the drainage angle is all wrong and needs going back down the line to get it right - something the previous occupiers skimped upon and bodged.
 
Whitworth said:
If you removed all the rest of the 'boxing' could you rotate the exsisting cast bend.
Click to expand...

:eek: :eek: :eek: .................that bend has been lead caulked into socket....NO WAY ......................just break the bend clean @ socket & remove existing iron along with lead/yarn.
 
Gotcha it's not cement but lead.

With the anatomy understood I'll hire the cutters and get a clean cut pipe to start afresh from.
 
Yuo might fair better using a 9" angle grinder on that cast iron , failing that you could hire a 'snap cutter' , these are big mother ****ers whereby you link the chain round the pipe a pump the 'long' handle a couple of times & the pipe will snap clean off , Rigid manu these , they cost £450 25 years ago. :eek:....only cast they won't cut is 'spun' so you will be fine.
 
last time i went for cut one i used hack saw for stright cut and lump hammer for the rest
 
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