Potterton Suprima not ignite
- Thread starter shan
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Hi Shan,
You will not see the pilot light because there is none, all you get is sparking which I think you should be able to see.
You can clean and check the gap of the electrodes or even change the ignition lead, but I doubt if thats the problem.
I strongly suspect the pcb will be the cause.
If you do a search for the 'suprima' on this forum you will find many others who have had the same problem including me.
You will not see the pilot light because there is none, all you get is sparking which I think you should be able to see.
You can clean and check the gap of the electrodes or even change the ignition lead, but I doubt if thats the problem.
I strongly suspect the pcb will be the cause.
If you do a search for the 'suprima' on this forum you will find many others who have had the same problem including me.
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As I recall, the distance of electrodes to burner was not ajustable, there being a dowel pin and hole.
Potterton do however have a test procedure and fault finding chart
Potterton do however have a test procedure and fault finding chart
MANDATE,
I can hear the sparks and cannot see them through the viewing hole. Are sparks viable during ignition?
I have gone through the Potterton Fault Finding Chart. It points to the electrode gap (3-4mm) if no sparks are detected. So the question is if the sparks visable. Does anybody know?
I can hear the sparks and cannot see them through the viewing hole. Are sparks viable during ignition?
I have gone through the Potterton Fault Finding Chart. It points to the electrode gap (3-4mm) if no sparks are detected. So the question is if the sparks visable. Does anybody know?
MANDATE said:As I recall, the distance of electrodes to burner was not ajustable, there being a dowel pin and hole.
Potterton do however have a test procedure and fault finding chart
You, again, are perfectly right mate but I have found, solely based on experiance mind you, that they can sometimes move away fractionally away from the corect 4mm distance and must be aligned back again.
Unfortunately no the sparks are not visible as the electrodes are located about three inchs to the left of the view hole.
Agree with chrisr that this could be a miriad of faults PCB, High tension lead, Electrodes etc etc, would advise you contact a fully qualified and approved POTTERTON engineer to sort this one out as it is my opinion that this is NOT a DIY problem
No doubt about o thousand chaps and chapesses in here will disagree with me
I'm not certain if the sparks are visible but if you can hear them then they must be there, although it is possible if the high tension lead insulation has broken down the sparks may not be going across the electrode gap.
Have you tried it in complete darkness?
I fitted a new lead (approx £2.00) to cover this ,but in my case it made no difference.
Corgiman and Chrisr are right that it could be any of a few things.
If you have sparking in the right place I would suspect either the gas valve or the pcb.
The solinoid windings on the gas valve can be tested for continuity and the reverse side of the pcb can be examined for poor soldered joints particularly near the terminal posts.
I agree with Corgiman it's not really a DIY job (unless you have a engineering background).
Have you tried it in complete darkness?
I fitted a new lead (approx £2.00) to cover this ,but in my case it made no difference.
Corgiman and Chrisr are right that it could be any of a few things.
If you have sparking in the right place I would suspect either the gas valve or the pcb.
The solinoid windings on the gas valve can be tested for continuity and the reverse side of the pcb can be examined for poor soldered joints particularly near the terminal posts.
I agree with Corgiman it's not really a DIY job (unless you have a engineering background).
I have replaced the PCB with a reconditioned one. It has not fixed the problem. Electrode works fine as well. It seems that there is no gas going into the burner. I checked the Burner Pressure Test Point and could not feel the gas flow. Adjusting the gas pressure did not work either. Is this problem related to the valve itself or something else? Do I need the replace the valve?
The gas valve has two solinoid windings and you can check these with a continuity meter. I seem to recall 3 terminals 1 of which is neutral so all combinations should give a reading ie 1/2, 2/3 and 1/3.
Ensure there is no source of power going to the boiler and remove the wires from the terminals before you check, but make a sketch for replacing them.
Apart from the gas valve and the pcb ,there is the possability of a faulty air pressure switch, which comprises a fan which creates a vacuum on a diaphram which in turn operates a micro switch. again it can be checked with ease. I removed all power to boiler, removed wires to fan and replaced them from external source ( extension lead with switch, making sure 'live' replaces 'live' otherwise fan will revolve in wrong direction)
Then with continuity meter across wires coming from micro switch I switched the fan on and off a few times, proving that it functioned.
Ensure there is no source of power going to the boiler and remove the wires from the terminals before you check, but make a sketch for replacing them.
Apart from the gas valve and the pcb ,there is the possability of a faulty air pressure switch, which comprises a fan which creates a vacuum on a diaphram which in turn operates a micro switch. again it can be checked with ease. I removed all power to boiler, removed wires to fan and replaced them from external source ( extension lead with switch, making sure 'live' replaces 'live' otherwise fan will revolve in wrong direction)
Then with continuity meter across wires coming from micro switch I switched the fan on and off a few times, proving that it functioned.
Generally you wont get an ignition attempt unless the air press switch ha s made. or is the suprema differant ,not seen one, would suspect the pilot coil myself especially if its the small honywell type, if it is this coil you cant get it from honywell but you can get a pattern one for around£15.
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As the others have said if cannot see a spark when you hear a clicking noise then it could be the spark gap, HT lead or the PCB.
If you do see a spark then from my experience it is usually the gas valve. I have changed many with the same fault.
You should be able to see the spark between the two electrodes.
Happy to help
If you do see a spark then from my experience it is usually the gas valve. I have changed many with the same fault.
You should be able to see the spark between the two electrodes.
Happy to help
The PCB on my boiler, and 3 neighbours, had faulty components that had burnt out. This seems a common fault. It took about 30 min to replace and cost approx £150 for a new PCB. You can DIY if you follow rules e.g. switch off electric before opening panel. I did mine and my neighbours with no drama's.
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