Help very bizzare problem

warrior_dogfood · 26 Nov 2005

No water in the central heating system.

I was bleeding a radiator last night and it suddenly went dry.

There is water in the header tank and if I turn the bleed on at that pipe (just before the pump) I get water. However there is no water after the pump even before the 3 way valve. Is it a problem with Sludge in the pump? If I turn the pump on water seems to flow but not very well.

Thanks Chaps

ollski · 26 Nov 2005

Not 100% sure I follow you, but does sound like a blocked cold feed.

JohnD · 26 Nov 2005

Do you mean the pumps sounds gurgly as if has air in it? Or is the pump very hot as if the motor is stalled?

It may be that the supply pipe is blocked with hardned sediment, have a read of:

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=240753
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36230&highlight=blockage
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34682&start=0
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36036&highlight=blockage

warrior_dogfood · 27 Nov 2005

Thanks for that chaps. It was a blockage in the pipe from the header tank to the pump. Fixed it with a wire coat hanger.

But I have a new problem now the piot light went out on the boiler at the same time (ish) and will not stay lit. If i keep the pilot light control pressed in the bolier will still not fire any Idea's?

Boiler is a Glow Worm Fuelsaver 2.

PIPERPETE · 27 Nov 2005

does the pilot light at all? and will it stay lit?

Trev B · 27 Nov 2005

Check out if there is an overheat stat on the boiler that needs reseting, (push button), or it could be an automatic reset overheat stat that has not reset, if it is disconect the t/couple and remove the fitting on the back of the gas valve and refit the t/couple, if it works replace the o/h stat. If it's one that has an interupter within the length of the t/couple short the two connections out on the o/h leads, again if it works change the o/h stat, (in both cases you're only bridging the o/h stat out to see if that's the problem and you should'nt run the boiler without the o/h stat, it's there for a reason), failing that try a new t/couple

ChrisR · 27 Nov 2005

The boiler probably overheated when full of air and popped the overheat stat - the reset button. That may not have reset. You can check it with a multimeter, should be zero ohms. If it is ok then it would seem to be the thermocouple - just a coincindence. The main burner is turned off while you hold the pilot light on with the knob/button.

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Help very bizzare problem

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