cooker cable

gedantic · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:21 pm Post Subject: cooker cable

Just wired a 4.25kw double oven to a spare 30amp fuse on CU.I`ve used 2.5T&E from CU to terminal box near oven.From here used 2.5mm heat resistant flex to oven, as reccomended by oven instruction booklet.The T&E used from CU totals approx 3.5m in length.Would this be considered as safe? According to \\\"home\\\" section of site 2.5mm is fine up to 4800W &20A!

pdcelec · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:25 pm Post Subject: Re: cooker cable

gedantic wrote:

Just wired a 4.25kw double oven to a spare 30amp fuse on CU.I`ve used 2.5T&E from CU to terminal box near oven.From here used 2.5mm heat resistant flex to oven, as reccomended by oven instruction booklet.The T&E used from CU totals approx 3.5m in length.Would this be considered as safe? According to \\\"home\\\" section of site 2.5mm is fine up to 4800W &20A!

note the highlighted bits and then comment on what you see

Adam_151 · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:25 pm Post Subject:

You'll want to be swapping that fuse for a 20A one...

Big_Spark · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:31 pm Post Subject:

Couple of points..2.5T&E can certainly handle the loading as it is around 18A at 230V or 17.5A at 240V.

However, the cable is not rated at 30A and so it should not be on a 30A breaker so you should change this to 20A.

Further, what is the distance from the consumer unit to the cooker outlet plate? So long as the cable run is shorter than about 27 meters total length you will be OK for volt drop..and being domestic I would presume that this is not an issue..

gedantic · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:42 pm Post Subject: Re: cooker cable

[quote="pdcelec"]

gedantic wrote:

Just wired a 4.25kw double oven to a spare 30amp fuse on CU.I`ve used 2.5T&E from CU to terminal box near oven.From here used 2.5mm heat resistant flex to oven, as reccomended by oven instruction booklet.The T&E used from CU totals approx 3.5m in length.Would this be considered as safe? According to \\\"home\\\" section of site 2.5mm is fine up to 480ote the highlighted bits aYnd then comment on what you see

Yes, it is rather blindingly obvious!!!!! Thanks!

gedantic · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:47 pm Post Subject:

Big_Spark wrote:

Couple of points..2.5T&E can certainly handle the loading as it is around 18A at 230V or 17.5A at 240V.

However, the cable is not rated at 30A and so it should not be on a 30A breaker so you should change this to 20A.

Further, what is the distance from the consumer unit to the cooker outlet plate? So long as the cable run is shorter than about 27 meters total length you will be OK for volt drop..and being domestic I would presume t hat this is not an issue..

Affirmative! So all I need do is change the fuse wire from 30 to 20?

Adam_151 · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 3:52 pm Post Subject:

gedantic wrote:

Affirmative! So all I need do is change the fuse wire from 30 to 20?

No, you need to change the whole fuse (and the base), what happens if the 20A blows for whatever reason and the person fixing it sees a 30A carrier, doesn't realise what has been done and fits 30A fuse wire?

Might be easier to purchase a 20A plug in MCB for it though, than a 20A BS3036

gedantic · Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 4:12 pm Post Subject:

Adam_151 wrote:

gedantic wrote:

Affirmative! So all I need do is change the fuse wire from 30 to 20?

No, you need to change the whole fuse (and the base), what happens if the 20A blows for whatever reason and the person fixing it sees a 30A carrier, doesn't realise what has been done and fits 30A fuse wire?

Might be easier to purchase a 20A plug in MCB for it though, than a 20A BS3036

Your knowledge is very much appreciated.Thanks again!