CENTRAL HEATING&HOT WATER WONT SWITCH OFF IDEAL BOILER F

Hi there, please can someone help me.

A couple of days ago I woke up to find that all my radiators were still on despite the programmer/controller housed in the kitchen saying that everything is off

The programmer is a Danfoss FP715 and the boiler is an "Ideal Classic LXFF & FF50 Flamed Flue Gas Boiler".

I went to B&Q today and bought a replacement programmer and fitted it however the same thing is still happening

Even with the dial on the boiler turned down to 1 (it goes up to 6) the heaters still stay on

I've also turned the thermostat in the hall down to almost zero but the heaters are still running

Could anyone please help me out with this problem and tell me whats wrong and needs to be done to fix things

My house is only 5 years old, and I have a hot water tank in my airing/bathroom cupboard if this relevant

Thanks in advance
Graham

maybe your valve is stuck open?

it should be by the hot water cylinder.

thanks for your quick reply corgiman

would that be in the cupboard in the bathroom, and if so do you have any idea how I can go about fixing it??

The only thing I can really see in the bathroom cupboard is a round black dial, that has the letters "r" and "c" on it and possibly a "w" in between them, which also has 8 Bar written on it and an arrow pointing to the right too??

Dont know if this is the right thing or not, but I'm roasting just now)

You have yet to tell us what the rest of your system is, apart from the boiler and programmer.
Given the type of boiler, you probably have at least one motorised valve, most often fitted near the hot water cylinder in the linen cupboard. If there is one, it's probably a '3-port' with one pipe coming to it from the boiler and two others leading off to the cylinder and the radiators.
First suspect is this valve being stuck, since it controls the boiler and pump as well as directing water flow. You may have 2 motorised valves, with just two pipes connected to each. Similarly, one of these may be stuck open.
We need to know the make and model of these valve(s) to go further.
Have a look at the FAQ on heating system basics.

I've just searched the Internet to see what these motorised valves look like and I cant see anything like them on or near the tank in the bathroom cupboard.

The tank in the airing cupboard is a "Heatrae Sadia Megaflo" and there are 5 pipes connected to it.

Near the bottom is the "primary flow" and the pipe along from this says "inlet"

Between them is a round plastic cover which i think has the thermostat inside it?? This has a flex attached to it and the switch it is attached to says "Water Heater" on it and the switch is off.

Directly up from the "primary flow" is the "primary return".

There is a pipe going into the top of it which doesnt say anything on it and the only other pipe has a black dial on it with RWC and TPR15 on it and this connects to a red cylilnder which is above it (says "Rexcon" on it) where i've adjusted/topped up the pressure on the system once before.

Hope this makes things clearer as to what i've got

If you have a Megaflow there will be a silver Honeywell 2-port valve on the pipe leading from the "primary flow" connection. Look for a similar valve on the pipework in this area, this will be the heating valve. With the power off the valve should be shut and the small metal lever on the end should move the valve to the open position by finger pressure; compare it to the other valve. If the lever has no resistance then the valve is stuck open, post back for more guidance then...

Thanks for that info "meldrew's_mate"

I've now removed a black panel that was below the tank and have found the hot water and the heating "motorised valves"

Well looking at E-Bay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Danfoss-HPA2-...oryZ3191QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This is what I believe they are

H/W has been written on the one which is connected to the "primary flow pipe" and it is the type HPA2 and the switch on it is sitting on AUTO rather than manual.

The other end of the pipe/connector is connected to another HPA2 valve/box which is also on AUTO.

Are these the 2 things that I need to check and if so do I switch off the power in the house to them first and remove the covers??

Thanks again in advance for all you and ebveryone elses help, I feel like I'm actually getting somewhere.

Further to the above, you are 110% correct Meldrews Mate.

There was no resistance on the Heating valve when I pushed it across from Auto to Manual, whereas it was really hard to move the lever on the Hot Water valve.

So am I right in thinking that the Heating valve need replacing or can it be fixed.

To me, it looks like the the box and pipe come as one and can be unscrewed from the pipework.

Probably geting ahead of myself here though but does that mean that I'll have to empty the hot water tank first with all the power switched off so it doesnt fill up again??

If so, then do I just power down and run all the taps dry then replace the piece of piping???

Assuming that his is correct (an its probably not, but it sounds good to me how do I fill the tank back up again (isit done via the black RCW knob thats halfway up the tank which cmes from the red cylinder thats above it??

Do i just turn this until i can hear anything going in??? so that i know that its full??

Thanks again
Graham

Heating now fixed guys, thanks to everyone who helped.

Faulty heating valve was the problem as it was sticking open.

Managed to buy a new motor only for it and fit it myself

This only cost £16, fantastic.

Heating and hot water now coming on and going off with the timer as its supposed to.

Once again, thanks so much for everyones input, you guys are stars

All the best
Graham