DIYnot
Local | Network
   DIYnot > Forums
Local | Network
DIYnot Network Local DIYnot Network Local  
  Forum IndexForum Index     RulesRules    HelpHelp     Join FREERegister Free     About CookiesCookies     SearchSearch     LoginLogin 

PROBLEMS WITH GLOW WORM COMPACT 100E COMBI - HELP PLEASE!!!

Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
sarahandmark

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 May 2006
Posts: 6
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 7:08 pm Reply with quote

Glow worm compact 100E icon_sad.gif WITH LOTS OF PROBLEMS!!!!!?

Please can you help me. Have just replaced the pcb on our Glow worm compact 100E after having no hot water. This still did not fix the problem, so we were told that we needed a new diaphram and hot water flow switch, which we have had fitted and guess what - now we have hot water, but the heating system comes on as well when we push the hot water only button (and in the good weather we have had today it's not funny any more!!!) When we put it onto radiators - the whole thing trips out again, so we still have no hot water. Please can anyone help. Many thanks. Sarah
Back to top
 Alert Moderators

If you do not want to see this advert, click here to login or if you are new click here to join free.
Gasguru

from United Kingdom

Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 6456
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 946 times

PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 9:12 pm Reply with quote

You say you have changed the pcb.

On this boiler and gas valve the burner gas pressures for the ignition/DHW/heating must be setup on the pcb; without doing so the boiler may not be operating safely - this is a corgi job.

It is not clear what the original problem was as you are changing parts without correctly diagnosing the fault.

Did the hot water demand light come on when you opened a hot tap?

A common problem is a holed diaphragm coupled with a leaking or siezed gland seal. This tends to stop the heating from operating but the water leak can also kill the hot water flow switch.

Have you checked the diverter valve is operating. With the hot water on check the heating flow pipe does not get hot.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
raden

from Indonesia

Joined: 05 Apr 2006
Posts: 1045
Location: Indonesia
Thanked: 5 times

PostPosted: Sat May 06, 2006 11:10 pm Reply with quote

It sounds like you have someone who doesn't know what he's doing, replacing things until the boiler works

pcbs are the forst things CH fitters tend to change when they don't know
the problem
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
sarahandmark

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 May 2006
Posts: 6
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 10:30 am Reply with quote

Gasguru,
Thanks very much for your reply - the heating has now stopped coming on every time we switch the hot water on, so maybe it was just airlocks in the pipes. Now we have another problem - to make the boiler work we have to turn the hot tap on then manually reset the boiler. The boiler operates and gives us hot water, but as soon as we turn off the hot tap, the boiler cuts out and we have to reset it again each time we want hot water. Any ideas????
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Gasguru

from United Kingdom

Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 6456
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 946 times

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 12:04 pm Reply with quote

Do you mean the red lockout led comes on as soon as you turn off the hot tap or does the led come on a short time after turning the tap off.

Does the led come on if you have the heating on and off?

The led is used to denote burner lockouts and overheat conditions AFAIK.

Is the hot water temperature sufficient.

Perhaps the overheat thermostat or thermisters have a problem.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
sarahandmark

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 May 2006
Posts: 6
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 1:23 pm Reply with quote

The green LED stays on for about 25 seconds after turning the tap off. Then the red LED comes on about 20 seconds after that!
The water does seem hotter than before we had all these problems!
The red LED does not come on when we have the heating on and when we turn the tap on it does not come on (but in this heat, we can't have the heating on all the time!!!!)
Hope all this makes sense. Thanks.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Gasguru

from United Kingdom

Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 6456
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 946 times

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 1:43 pm Reply with quote

I assume you mean the green hot water demand LED (near the timeclock).

This appears to indicate the DHW diaphragm gland seal is sticking ie the pin does not retract instantly as you turn off the hot tap. Hence the boiler continues to fire and then overheat and lockout. I mentioned this before in my posting.

Remove the DHW switch assembly from front of diaphragm, open and close hot tap several times and check the pin retracts fully each time.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
sarahandmark

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 May 2006
Posts: 6
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 9:12 pm Reply with quote

Checked the pin and it retracts when it is supposed to. Maybe the sensor that is attached to it is not sensing it !!

Anything else we can check before calling out the cowboys ?
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Gasguru

from United Kingdom

Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 6456
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 946 times

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 9:26 pm Reply with quote

Well unless the pin sticks only when the switch is fitted or there is a problem with the new switch I've run out of ideas.

Did you replace the brass cover and gland seal or only the diaphragm and switch?
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Agile

from United Kingdom

Joined: 26 Jun 2004
Posts: 53343
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 3381 times

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 10:01 pm Reply with quote

I posted the likely cause of the problem some while ago but someone decided to delete it!

Tony
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
sarahandmark

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 May 2006
Posts: 6
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 10:10 pm Reply with quote

just the diaphram and switch. But I did test it with the old switch as well just to make sure it wasn't the switch. Bloody hell, don't you just learn so much when something breaks down
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Gasguru

from United Kingdom

Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 6456
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 946 times

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 10:16 pm Reply with quote

Get a new brass cover and seal, I've changed loads.

Tony what was your original post? Any ideas whats happened to Pcb's for these boilers. Apparently they are no longer available (for the time being)for the 75e etc something about a dispute between Glowworm and the supplier (Honeywell)
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Agile

from United Kingdom

Joined: 26 Jun 2004
Posts: 53343
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 3381 times

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 10:46 pm Reply with quote

Whenever I have posted a suggestion which is then deleted, as a matter of principle I am very reluctant to repeat it.

Since I give my time totally free of charge to make these suggestions to help people, if somebody else decides to delete them then I feel that I have done my bit and although its very unfortunate for the original questioner, those who delete them dont seem very bothered about that aspect.

I have not heard about any shortage of G-W PCBs. Do you mean the Swiftflow 75e or a Compact Combi 75e ( dont remember that one ).

Tony
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Gasguru

from United Kingdom

Joined: 09 Sep 2005
Posts: 6456
Location: London,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 946 times

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2006 11:02 pm Reply with quote

The Compact 75e and similar. The boards I've seen are stamped up as Honeywell (and contain the Honeywell thick film modules from the CVI black and red boxes).

I wonder if they are licencesed to Chinese manufacturing plants and thats where the dispute lies.

Unless Glowworm are ditching Honeywell now thay are owned by Vaillant.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
sarahandmark

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 May 2006
Posts: 6
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2006 8:59 am Reply with quote

I don't know who deleted your reply, but I would be very interested to hear it!
I had a lot of problems getting a new PCB for the compact 100e. Most suppliers said they had been waiting weeks from G-W and still did not have them in stock as G-W themsleves are struggeling to get them. In the end, managed to find a place in Doncaster who had one in stock.
Back to top
 Alert Moderators
Search this topic :: View previous topic :: View next topic  
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DIYnot.com Forum Index > Plumbing and Central Heating All times are GMT
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Similar Topics   Replies   Views   Posted 
Glow Worm Compact 100e - problems firing 4 1020 Thu May 10, 2007 9:33 pm
Glow worm compact 100e combi - Hot water / boiler trip probs 8 6500 Thu Feb 14, 2008 6:59 pm
glow worm compact 100e combi boiler 2 800 Mon Oct 26, 2009 5:13 pm
Glow Worm Compact 100e 12 840 Fri Nov 07, 2008 11:49 pm
Glow Worm Compact 100E Leaking Heat Exchanger Gasket Help. 5 120 Thu Oct 20, 2011 4:47 pm


 
DIYnot
Find an Expert | Find a Supplier | Search DIYnot.com
Network | Advertising | Newsletter
DIY | DIY How To | @home | DIY Wiki | DIY Forum
By using this site you agree to our Terms of Service / Disclaimer.
Please read our Privacy Policy. Copyright © 2000-2014 DIYnot Limited.