Replacing a Honeywell V4073A valve.

Malcolmkeith · 4 Sep 2006

The problem is that hot water circulates in both water and CH regarding of the controller setting. I removed the electrical part of the V4073A and whatever the position I manually set the shaft to it still circulates in both circuits. Previously on another system I was able to change the head only. So it looks like this time I have got to drain down and replace the valve.
My concern is that if the olives are stuck on the pipes I don't have enough length of pipe to shorten the pipe and fit a new olives.
Can I use the existing olives or will they leak?

ChrisR · 4 Sep 2006

You won't be able to get the valve not "letting by" to the CH by just turning the shaft towards the HW end, with the actuator off.
Is the shaft free to move ok - they only go about 40º?
You could have a wiring error, a sticky actuator or a sticky shaft, or a defective rubber sealing ball in the valve itself.
If you want to replace the lot you don't have to remove the brass body - undo the square plate/moving part/ball from the top of the new valve and swap it over. You will have to drain down to do that though.
If the head's ok, you can just buy the ball and plate.

Malcolmkeith · 4 Sep 2006

ChrisR said:
You won't be able to get the valve not "letting by" to the CH by just turning the shaft towards the HW end, with the actuator off.
Is the shaft free to move ok - they only go about 40º?

Could you explain this please. I thought that all the actuator did was move the shaft fully one way for heating, fully the other way for hot water and in the centre for both. So I thought moving it manually from one extreme to the other would select heating or hot water.The shaft moves freely enough.
The actuator is faulty but I thought the valve was too.

plumber (new blood) · 4 Sep 2006

do the honeywell course

ollski · 4 Sep 2006

As chris pretty much said just replace the ball and plate, just give the ports in the valve a clean....usually will do the job. You can buy a rad change (bung) kit and do the job in 10 mins without a drain down.

ChrisR · 4 Sep 2006

I thought moving it manually from one extreme to the other would select heating or hot water.

It requires considerable force to hold it in place.
There may be nowt wrong with your valve part.

Malcolmkeith · 4 Sep 2006

Thank you Chris.I am slightly surprised at this. The mechanics of the actuator don't look strong enough to impart considerable force to the shaft.Do you think if I grasp the shaft in a mole grip and push it hard I can divert the flow only to the water circuit?I would really like to find out if the valve is capable of working if I just change the actuator.

Thank you oilski. That is useful information.Would you mind telling me what a rad change bung kit is? Would a plumbers supplier know what I mean if I ask for this?

plumber (new blood)
This is a do it yourself forum. If you think your comment was useful it was not.If you think it was funny it was not. Assume when someone asks a question it is because they are lacking information, not because they are stupid. Fortunately there are a lot of knowledgable people on this forum who are willing to spread their knowledge.Learn from them.

Softus · 5 Sep 2006

On another topic said:
yeah you do have a point softus i just type it out quick, i only stubbled across this site because i was looking for info on a control system iam designing for a job, not sure how much advice to give the DIY`S tho?
how much knowlege is dangerous in the wrong hand, these people are getting our advice for free dam it! ha

well they are gona do it any way so might as well try an improve DIY`s standards haha.

And yet...

plumber (new blood) said:
do the honeywell course

There's as much chance of that happening as you being helpful.

plumber (new blood) · 5 Sep 2006

sorry i suck, ino i`am picking it up. do the course on the controls made by the market leader

Softus · 5 Sep 2006

plumber (new blood) said:
sorry i suck, ino i`am picking it up. do the course on the controls made by the market leader

You've missed my point (although I added to if while you were posting).

What's the point of making such an unhelpful post? Be realistic - the OP is not about to go on a Honeywell course (they're not free, BTW), just to learn how to deal with his MZV problem.

plumber (new blood) · 5 Sep 2006

sorry , did you really save what i wrote ages a go? are you the boss of this site, like the plumbing police or something.

Softus · 5 Sep 2006

plumber (new blood) said:
sorry

I challenge your sincerity on this one.

did you really save what i wrote ages a go?

No. Everything is saved on the forum - how did you not realise that?

BTW, you wrote it merely 8 days ago.

are you the boss of this site,

No.

like the plumbing police or something.

Er, WTF?

chr15 · 5 Sep 2006

Cheered me up before bed-i like a laff

Plumbing police

Softus · 5 Sep 2006

Malcolmkeith said:
The mechanics of the actuator don't look strong enough to impart considerable force to the shaft.Do you think if I grasp the shaft in a mole grip and push it hard I can divert the flow only to the water circuit?I would really like to find out if the valve is capable of working if I just change the actuator.

You don't need a huge force, just a constant one. Mole grips would do, but be careful not to get heavy-handed. Doing it with the system cold will make if much easier to tell whether or not you've succeeded in closing one of the ports.

Would you mind telling me what a rad change bung kit is? Would a plumbers supplier know what I mean if I ask for this?

Yes, but be prepared to try alternative words, like "feed and expansion tank bung kit", or "cistern bung kit".

If you use a bung kit then turn off all the rads to minimise the draining.

However, bear in mind that if the cause of the problem is gunge on the valve, then you'll need to fully drain down and fully flush the system in order to prevent the problem recurring.

If you empty the system then don't forget to add a chemical inhibitor when refilling.

plumber (new blood) · 5 Sep 2006

softus, i AM sorry.
i`ll try an stay out of your way, i did`n`t mean what i said, your not the plumbing police. I`am just being a t**t, just tell me to f off if you like. sorry did`nt mean anything by it mate.

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Replacing a Honeywell V4073A valve.

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