I have an issue with small amounts of air "trapping" in one radiator. Is it possible to fit an automatic bleed valve, or are there no such things?
John
John
fitting auto-bleed valve to radiator
- Thread starter john.eaves
- Start date
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yes.go to plumbers merchants they will sort u out
There are & can be fitted if the whole of your rad air vent can be removed exposing a 1/2" or 1/4" tapping.
if a lot of 'air' is appearing in your rad, then i would suggest draining your sytem cleaning the rad out, chemically flush the system and add some fernox corrosion inhibitor on refilling (unless you have a fortic hotwater cylinder then dont use inhibitor. you can listen to the hotwater cylinder on draining and if you hear bubbling or gurggling then its fortic. if you're lucky it will still be on a label on the tank). The 'air' that keeps appearing in your rad is most likely hydrogen gas caused by corrosion. to test this, when bleeding hold a match next to the valve, if u get a little flame then its hydrogen if not then you need to look at the way your system is designed (micro leaks etc)
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Use one of these http://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/Aladdin_100_HV30C_Bleeder.html Two for £9.50 is something of a bargain as well, I've seen them at £7.50 each!
As has been mentioned though, it could be the product of corrosion in your rad. This will get rid of the air/gas but will not cure underlying problems
As has been mentioned though, it could be the product of corrosion in your rad. This will get rid of the air/gas but will not cure underlying problems
I have only had my central heating system in for 2 years and in this time I find that I regularly have to bleed the rads but then the pressure in my combi boiler drops really low so I have to top this up, this happens maybe 4 or 5 times a year but the bleeding is more often, does this mean I have a leak in the system somewhere or is there a more pleasing to the ear answer? ( just had new carpets and flooring fitted and the idea of ripping it all up is a nightmare )
every time you take air out of the system, you are also dropping the pressure. this has to be topped back up through the filling loop every time you bleed the system
if you fill your system to 1.5 bar cold, and then run c/h what pressure rise is there on the gauge (ie whats it go to?)
post back with these results to proceed to STAGE 2
if you fill your system to 1.5 bar cold, and then run c/h what pressure rise is there on the gauge (ie whats it go to?)
post back with these results to proceed to STAGE 2
1 dont hijack old posts start a new one
2 more info boiler / system etc would not go astray
2 more info boiler / system etc would not go astray
110 to go KP!!
Hi there, after topping the system from cold and leaving it on for around an hour it has gone from 1.5 bar to just under 2.
The boiler is a worcester bosch greenstar combi boiler.
STAGE 2
we can rule out your expansion vessel, but not the PRV and pipework to outside
you have a Pressure Reducing Valve inside boiler that lifts at 3 bar to dump excess pressure to outside. Have a look at this pipe outside, is it dripping? are there signs its been outputting water?
if PRV and pipework are dry, you can fill boiler to 2 bar and close flow and return isolating valves under the boiler, and leave for a decent length of time (12 hrs) central heating and hot water cannot be used during this test time, boiler to be electrically isolated
if pressure on gauge down= leak from boiler
if pressure on gauge NOT down, open iso valves. if gauge drops=leak in pipework,rads,radiator valve connections
hope this helps
we can rule out your expansion vessel, but not the PRV and pipework to outside
you have a Pressure Reducing Valve inside boiler that lifts at 3 bar to dump excess pressure to outside. Have a look at this pipe outside, is it dripping? are there signs its been outputting water?
if PRV and pipework are dry, you can fill boiler to 2 bar and close flow and return isolating valves under the boiler, and leave for a decent length of time (12 hrs) central heating and hot water cannot be used during this test time, boiler to be electrically isolated
if pressure on gauge down= leak from boiler
if pressure on gauge NOT down, open iso valves. if gauge drops=leak in pipework,rads,radiator valve connections
hope this helps
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