Yesterday I found a fairly large hole in the end of a pipe I believe is lead that is used for overflow for water coming from a bathroom sink. The house if about 90 years old and I really don't want to have to replace this pipe. Is there a way to patch /repair this hole? Its at the end of a pipe, that I guess is filled with lead and one of the edges where the filling meets has corroded through. I am afraid if I call someone to fix this they will surely want to replace it, but I just want to patch it at this time. How is this done? Sodering? Sealant? And keep in mind its just an overflow area.
How to repair corrosion hole in backwash lead drain pipe
- Thread starter lzahn
- Start date
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Qute easy, if you get the right solder. It has to be the type used for "wiping" joints. In UK it's called type D and sold in sticks about 1.4" x 3/4".
You can either build up the edges of the pipe, or (easier) get a piece of lead , flashing or pipe, cut it a bit oversize, and solder it on.
You have to scrape everything scrupulously clean. Ordinary copper jointing flux will do.
Trick is to GENTLY heat the pipe, and the stick solder at the same time. Just after the "haze" goes from the pipe, the solder will melt onto it quite easily. I suggest you don't worry about the aesthetics, just get the metal seal complete. Afterwards you can fuss with it, though filing it might be safer. With practise you can "wipe" the thing smooth while the solder is still only partly frozen- depends how many you were intending to do!
Have a practise on some scrap first. It is possible after a few trials, to use ordinary plumbers solder or even the electronic one.
You can either build up the edges of the pipe, or (easier) get a piece of lead , flashing or pipe, cut it a bit oversize, and solder it on.
You have to scrape everything scrupulously clean. Ordinary copper jointing flux will do.
Trick is to GENTLY heat the pipe, and the stick solder at the same time. Just after the "haze" goes from the pipe, the solder will melt onto it quite easily. I suggest you don't worry about the aesthetics, just get the metal seal complete. Afterwards you can fuss with it, though filing it might be safer. With practise you can "wipe" the thing smooth while the solder is still only partly frozen- depends how many you were intending to do!
Have a practise on some scrap first. It is possible after a few trials, to use ordinary plumbers solder or even the electronic one.
Why not?
If you are in the US they might have a different grading system for the solder there. Might be better to try a US DIY site for help
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