whirlpool ADG 7560 854275515879 dishwasher

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bobsy

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got a problem with my dishwasher it is making a constant beeping sound after a couple of miniutes of me starting a program and returns from the selected program back to rinse within a couple of miniutes, thought the start light was flashing continuiosly but after a second look i noticed it flashes 7 times with a slight pause in between but the beeping does not stop turned it off and on a few times and and keep trying to start it which has resulted in a few completed cycles but now it is driving me insane.
have cleaned the filters at the bottom and checked the water supply by disconecting the pipe at the back and turning the water on and everything seems fine. it has only been plumbed in since october but was stored in its box it the garage for about a year as it was awaiting the kitchen to be done and as it was a gift so i do not have the reciept to take it back, also tried whirlpool customer care but they just do not want to know

somebody please help
 
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Possibly a problem with the flow meter.
Take the left hand panel off and at the bottom of the water matrix you'll see two wires going to a reed switch. Pull the plug off, push it back on and try the machine again.
 
cheers sleepyhead,

will try that tonight and let you know how i get on :D
 
hey sleepyhead,

tried that with the reed switch but still the same anymore ideas
 
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Take out the filters and the mesh filter, you'll see a black grid in the bowl. Carefully clean any grease/gunge out of it. Don't puncture the membrane in it as this would render it useless.
If cleaning this doesn't cure the problem then it's either faulty pressure switch or pcb.
 
Hi, i had the same problm. It was due to a blockage leading to water accumulating beneath the filter.
What you have to do is take away the grill and absorb the water using a sponge or cloth. Also open the salt container and absorb the water. Then your machine is ready to work again. Have fun!!!
 
Thanks chaps - fixed the fault...

Had the constant bleeping and flashing of the start button LED (7 flashes, pause, 7 flashes ...). Ensured no drain blockage and emptied all water in sump (below filters) and salt conner - Fault remained.

As per Sleepyhead's post, I removed the left hand panel and removed/replaced connector on the flow meter reed switch. Initially this did not remove fault, but leaving the connector off gave the exact same fault, suggesting this sensor (reed switch) was the cause of the fault. I removed the entire plastic structure in which the flow meter (and associated reed switch) is housed - from inside machine, remove the water inlet housing on left of machine by turning anti-clockwise 1/4 turn. This allows you to remove the plastic structure by lifting away from the bottom housing - careful not to lose the 3 rubber O-rings!

Once removed, I checked reed switch operation. This is a normally open switch that closes when a magnet is brought into close proximity with it - used a multi-meter. The reed itself was okay, but I could see dirty contacts on the small PCB that the reed switch is soldered to. I removed the blue plastic connector guide (difficult) then cleaned contacts with fibreglass brush (pencil eraser is also good).

Before re-assembly, I used a small pair of pliers to tighten up the two connector contacts such that they gripped the PCB contacts better.

Fault cured - thank you for your help.
 
Having same problem, have done all in this thread but still no go. It is fair to say that a reed switch is either on or off, so would be fair to say, to test the reed switch you could just complete the circuit by running a cable between the two connectors. Again this wouldonly be a test and not a solution but I am assuming that the control unit is not expecting a certain amperage to be returned and that the reed switch does not return varying signals? I am very new to this, first dishwasher/first problem and it is driving me completely mad! An new reed switch is coming in at £65.00 so need to be sure it is the fault here. Please reply and help me with this!
 
Reed switch is either on or off but the water flow into the machine causes the reed switch to produce a stream of On Off On Off signals that is converted into water volume. Ie it measures the amount of water being allowed into the machine. So it is the varying signal that is needed.
 
I discovered this shortly after writing that post, thanks for confirming it for me. I have now finally fixed the fault, here is how I did it for anyone who wants to save some money.

1. Whirlpool, espares..etc would only do the part at cheapest for £80, I wasn't going to take this risk that the reed switch was not the fault so I took a chance...!?

2. Purchased the following reed switch CL37S, all ratings, sizes seemed most plausable.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=12389

3. Soldered it into the PCB, photo attached of the PCB with old (broken) reed switch.

4. Hey presto, the dishwasher worked like new.

Saving of £79.00 as the reed only cost £1!!! I am a very happy man, the kitchen is clean, and I have saved a lot of money!!

Thanks for all your help with this on the forum, great website and first time ever on it, DIT is not my strong side! I hope my experience will save others money when they have the same problem as I did.

Keywords : Diplomat whirlpool dishwasher ADP8332 ADP 8332 F7 fault beeping reed PCB water flow sensor

Reed switch PCB with broken reed switch (by me..!!!)

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Location of reed switch PCB

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I've had the same f7 fault with similar frustrations.
my solution was slightly different. After removing water matrix & checking reed switch etc. I noticed a small blockage in one of the outlet pipes from the matrix, removed blockage put everything back together -
HEY PRESTO HAPPY WIFE
 
Thanks for really useful post. I had the same problem with my Whirlpool ADP 4404/5 dishwasher. After failing with 7 flashes of the green LED and then fixing itself a few times it developed into a hard fault and I decided to investigate. The reed switch in this machine is located in the same place. It measured 5 ohms with the terminal block removed. After removing the small pcb the reed switch measured open circuit, i.e it had fixed itself. It was on a bank holiday so I reassembled the machine and it has now been ok for several washes.

Thinking about the root cause of the failure it could be just normal wear and tear of the reed switch or maybe a capacitor on the control pcb is failing resulting in increased sparking and an occasional tack weld of the contacts. If it fails again with 7 flashes of the green LED I will purchase a replacement reed switch from Maplin and try that first.
 
Update: After the machine failed then fixed itself a few more times I replaced the reed switch and all is now well. Actually the glass case of the original reed switch was cracked allowing a small amount of movement of the switch contacts which caused the intermittent fault.
 
Hey Folks,
This is my first time joining a site like this and the reason i am is because this site is really helpful. I had a problem with my dish washer and the fault was indicated by 6 beeps and flashing LED. I searched the net and was directed to this site and saw JB5308 had similar problem.
Now i checked every thing and i was 80 % sure it had something to do with water flow, either restricted or not monitored (water flowing into the washer is checked by the flow meter). i was so ****ed off that i called a service guy, which still has not shown, Thank God, cause each time you try something you must remove the covers and replace them before checking, a real pain.
Any ways i went to Maplin and purchased a REED switch for a few euro, removed the old one and soldered in the new one which all took about 10 mins and turned it on and low and behold i am still listening to it running away in the kitchen as i am typing .
So JB5308 Thank you very much and keep the info coming no matter how small cause i feel that so many more people will learn from other peoples experiences.
however if you are an amateur DIY person please UNPLUG the equipment you are working on and BE SAFE.
 
Hi guys
I'm getting the same problem which you seemed to have solved. I just wanted to get a bit of advice on replacing the reed switch. How do you remove the old one? Do you just snip it off and then solder the new one into the existing solder? Never attempted this type of repair before but it seems worth a punt for a £1 reed switch.
Any replies gratefully received.
Great forum.
Topdad
 
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