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Can a DIY'er replace a radiator valve without draining down?


 
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muffking

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Dec 2004
Posts: 173
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:35 am Reply with quote

Hands up, I've caused a problem for myself.
When changing a rad I snapped off the tip of the lockshield valve when it seized shut. I now need to replace the radiator valve preferably without draining the sealed combi system. Can it be done?

I've thought of pipe freezing, but can't find a kit and have no idea how much it costs.
I've thought of removing the valve top and replacing it very quickly?
I've also thought of fitting a push fit pipe isolator inline with the valve to give me time to change the valve, but I have no idea if any of these (or other) ideas are viable.

Ideas please, hopefully one without making to much of a mess.

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Bahco

from United Kingdom

Joined: 08 Feb 2004
Posts: 7982
Location: Wolverhampton,
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 9:59 am Reply with quote

Turn all your other rads off and drain down. Rebalance and inhibit your system icon_biggrin.gif
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uknokianut

from United Kingdom

Joined: 20 Nov 2006
Posts: 49
Location: London,
United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:33 pm Reply with quote

Just drop the pressure in the system . You can swap the valve without draining down if you do it quickly, just have plenty of towels just incase.
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fitz1

from United Kingdom

Joined: 24 Nov 2004
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Location: Merseyside,
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:12 pm Reply with quote

use a sealed builders bag to catch any water.
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muffking

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Dec 2004
Posts: 173
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:59 am Reply with quote

Cheers guys. I took your advise and added a 23 domestic pipe freezing kit just in case. I managed to get away with only enough spillage to take up 2 sheets of kitchen roll icon_smile.gif

My only problem now is that after changing the rads I now have a rushing water type noise coming from the pipes which run down the wall from the upstairs boiler to the downstairs kitchen rad. I can only think of giving it a couple of weeks before bleeding the system again in case any air is in the pipework?
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EliteHeat

from United Kingdom

Joined: 28 Jan 2006
Posts: 1094
Location: London,
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:14 am Reply with quote

Why wait a couple of weeks? why not do it now?
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muffking

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Dec 2004
Posts: 173
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 5:29 pm Reply with quote

I did, but the paperwork that came with the new rads said to bleed again after 2-3 weeks, probably in case fitting the new rad creates an airlock in the system?
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gigz

from United Kingdom

Joined: 07 Oct 2006
Posts: 3312
Location: United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:42 pm Reply with quote

That just means bleed again in a few weeks anyway, you can bleed at anytime if you think theres air in, if its topped up with inhibiter and no leaks it should be fine.
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muffking

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 Dec 2004
Posts: 173
Location: Lincolnshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:09 pm Reply with quote

Yeah I filled the largest rad with 1/2 litre of inhibitor to be on the safe side, but I'm concerned as to what the rushing water in the pipe coild be caused by?
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