Yet another non-spinning washing machine... lots of detail

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16 Aug 2007
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London
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We have a Bosch Classixx combined washer/dryer that has stopped being able to agitate the clothes during the wash cycle, spin them before drying, or while tumble drying. When you switch it on, the dial moves slowly as usual, indicating that the programme *should* be progressing - but it isn't happening. It will not spin at any speed - 1200 or 600 rpm, or in any of the programmes.

The drum will turn freely by hand, either by rotating the drum itself or by turning the belt. The belt appears to be fine. The motor also turns when the drum turns.

My partner believes that the carbon brushes are fine and in good contact with the commutator. (He checked by looking inside with a torch). All of the wiring between the motor and the control board and timer is visually intact. He believes that the motor is fine because there is no visible sign or smell of any burning or "magic smoke escape". There is also no sign of any visible damage to the circuit board.

Apparently the next thing to check is "the circuit across the terminals on the motor, because there is a thermal overload switch inside which may have tripped", but he couldnt find that. Sites also suggest "checking" the voltage across the terminals with a voltmeter or multimeter, but they never say what the voltage should be! (Surely not 230V?).

What is most likely to be wrong? I looked at the prices of parts on the Bosch web site, and a new motor is £175.49, while the "motor module" is £50.54. The washing machine only cost ~£300, so I dont really want to order parts at random - and I dread to think how much they'll charge to come & look at it.
 
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I would expect the motor to run on 230 volts, you could try rigging it up to the mains, shove 230v up it and see if it spins. (Hold that thought - these motors are variable speed, this might not be a good idea!!! wait for expert advice!!!)
 
Hmm. Richard is now no longer sure that the brushes are ok :rolleyes:. The problem is, pictures of the brushes online only show them before installation - not how they should look in place! He is unsure if the metal part surrounding the brushes should always be visible, or if it only shows once the brushes are running short. The metal part is just protruding from the holder, but there's still "lots" of carbon left before the commutator.
 
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The only way to tell if motor brushes are worn is to remove them & physically examine them, they could be pitted on the contact face or too short to be held firmly against the com.
 

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